4g15 turbo help

Josh34

Josh34

Member
hey ya guys. i bought a "turbo kit" last night for my 4g15 2003 mirage. it came with basically everything i need (t25 turbo i think, exhaust manifold, 2.5" exhaust dump, all cooler pipes, evo5 interooler, "upgraded injectors" not sure on size on stock fuel rail with fuel pressor reg, new sump with bung welded on for oil return, all oil and coolant lines and fianlly a unichip piggy back ecu)
So basically what i want to know first is, is there a build/ how to thread to turbo the g15 (searched the forum and found f*** all)
Now will the evo5 intercooler fit nicely behind the stock front bar or will i need to chop heaps of the bar and framing out (trying to keep the car stealth)
coolant lines ive read can be re routed from the throttle body to the turbo then back to the throttle body? is this true?
do i need to upgrade fuel pump or will stock be fine (only planning on running like 7-10psi) ive got a walbro 255lph from my skyline that i can salvage as its waaaaay to small for it hahahahaha
Now the tricky thing i cant find ANYTHING about online. the ecu i got is a unichip piggy back and i didn't get a wiring diagram with it and theres nothing online so has anyone used/wired in one if so help me plz ta xoxo
ORRRRRRR will i be better off just installing a safc and tuning it my self
ORSO taking suggestions to other engine managment options (noooo i dont want to reflash a ecu fyi)

please mention anything else that i may need to get this working like sensors and stuff
 
Get a tuner to wire it in and tune it.
Cooler will fit behind stock bar but will still need cutting.
Idk who tf told you coolant comes from a throttle body. No. You'd need water and oil lines to cool the turbo.

Instructions:

Replace exhaust mani with turbo mani. Run all lines and piping where they can fit and need to go. Bolt on exhaust. Bolt on fuel rail. Fit intercooler. Take it to a tuner. Cry cus it doesn't work. Spend more money on it. Cry more. Finally works but you spent twice what you wanted to and now hate the car. And its still slower than a mildly worked 1.8l.

It's always an unknown with a turbo kit that isn't factory mate. All 1.5 turbo builds are frankenstein stuff slapped together in the hope it works. That isn't always the case. You won't know til you get it fitted.
 
Regarding the coolant lines, yes you can use the throttle body coolant lines for the turbo. The way you do it is so the coolant line goes block to tb > turbo inlet > turbo outlet > tb inlet. The existing tb outlet stays in place. Run the oil line from the pressure sensor (near the alt) and then obviously you'll need to run a drain to the sump.

Regarding your ECU just go standalone rather than trying piggybacks. I've ordered an Adaptronic m1200 for mine. You can get away without cutting up the front bar for your cooler but it depends on how the piping runs and how well you mount the cooler up to the rad support, worse case you might just need to reduce the bar runners to allow fitment. It's just gonna be a trial fit situation since your piping is custom.
 
ccturbo said:
Regarding the coolant lines, yes you can use the throttle body coolant lines for the turbo. The way you do it is so the coolant line goes block to tb > turbo inlet > turbo outlet > tb inlet
Click to expand...

Do you t piece it at all? That wouldn't work on the cc and I got sad.
 
Oh yeah it's not an oem setup, ignore me lmao.

Where is your oil return line going though? Did you get a modified sump with your turbo kit?
 
Cheers boys
Yeh I got a modified sump with the kit with the oil return bung welded on
Don't really want to go stand alone as I want to do this as cheap as possible as it's my "daily"
Is there anyway of avoiding going to standalone?
Like running a safc or something so I can "tune" it my self?
 
As far as I was aware 4g15 ecus couldn't be flash tuned etc but plastic case 4g93 ecus can. Someone may be able to correct that, but I haven't seen a stock ecu used a 1.5L before. Always been piggyback or standalone.

Here's some info from RPW:

Computer Modifications

Okay two choices. EMS, Re-flash Factory ECU or Piggy Back. Pro’s and Con’s. But We like to think of it this way.

  1. If you are still budget conscious (And your at Group 3?), then stick with the piggy back. Don’t run more than 12 psi boost or go more than say a twin 46mm throttle body package and definitely don’t do any camshaft work. You will be fine.
  2. Your not budget conscious within reason. Then EMS is the way to go. Much more advanced tuning, with options like shift lights, in built boost controllers, many many more mapping points, much finer tuning if your going over 12 psi boost or doing cam work etc this is the ONLY choice. Additionally the stock ECU even with a piggy back is unable to cope with any camshaft changes at all.
Some model ECU’s we can re-flash. We can handle virtually any combination of modifications except for turbo-charging. Great option, no cutting or wiring and perfect for those with low to medium level of modifications.

Haltech Interceptor / Greddy Emanage systems – provide a great unit for baseline tuning. The Haltech we recommend for people who have gone all the through the Group 1 & 2 level modifications, but don’t plan on going any further. The Greddy Emanage we recommend if you are going for a turbo / twin throttle body conversion due to its ability to be able to tune with larger injectors and tune properly (To a degree) with boost.

Haltech EMS systems are what RPW specialises in. We make our own plug and play ECU packages which means we can have your car running in around 15 minutes with a Haltech EMS system on there. There is the E6X for those wanting something simple, or the Haltech E8 for those wanting the best. With the inbuilt boost controllers, and hosts of other functions, these are way ahead of trying do piece together a piggy back with separate boost controllers, shift lights, gauges etc.

Note that we do not recommend plug in pre programmed computer chips. These are not tuned in real time on a dyno to suit your individual car. As you modify your vehicle you move further away from the standard average formulae of your engine output. This requires significant tuning and can only be done in real time, not on a computer 3000miles away from your car.

The interceptor units usually provide around a 5kw gain at the flywheel, with improved drive ability and torque. The full EMS units provide a little more at this point, but really show there benefit later with more extensive modifications.
 
Basically that says they can't flash the stock ecu for turbo applications. Take it with a grain of salt.
 
Hmmmm interesting
Well seems to me then I'll be fine with the piggy back I got as I don't see my self going over 10 psi or doing any cam work

Also may seem like a silly question but does anyone know if I can pull the sump off with out pulling the motor out?
 
Definitely can. Drop the oil, unbolt the sump, slap the new sump on and seal it properly. Then block the bung til you need to actually use it. Pop oil back in too.

You may need to remove part of the exhaust, not certain on that.
 
And the fuel pump. Will that need to be upgraded or can I use the stock? I've got a walbro 255lph Or will that be too big?
 
So im now balls deep into the conversion
Took the car for a lap around the block yesterday only to realise that the turbo is rooted
So now I gotta pull it all apart again to change it faaaaaarrrrrkkknnn

So while I'm looking for a new one I've decided to move the battery too the boot to make more room for a proper intake with a pod filter and make it look a lot nicer
So what size cable would I need to run to the front of the car??

Also my cooler piping is clashing with my charcoal canister so what do I have to do to delete the canister (ie: re route the lines?) or can I put a smaller canister in?? (got one laying around from my skyline which is tiny)

Cheers
 
Josh34 said:
So im now balls deep into the conversion
Took the car for a lap around the block yesterday only to realise that the turbo is rooted
So now I gotta pull it all apart again to change it faaaaaarrrrrkkknnn

So while I'm looking for a new one I've decided to move the battery too the boot to make more room for a proper intake with a pod filter and make it look a lot nicer
So what size cable would I need to run to the front of the car??

Also my cooler piping is clashing with my charcoal canister so what do I have to do to delete the canister (ie: re route the lines?) or can I put a smaller canister in?? (got one laying around from my skyline which is tiny)

Cheers
Click to expand...
Regarding the battery, you can just remount it on top of where the loom runs. You can bypass the canister by just running the line directly from the intake manifold to the fuel line. Not legal with the EPA but I'd be very surprised if they picked up on it.

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