2007 2.4l CH velocity probs

CH2.4L

New Member
Hi all,

I have a 2007 2.4l CH manual velocity. It has flat spots/dead spots/loss of some power throughout rev range. The car doesn't seem to be missing or running rough it just has less power than normal at these times. The problem is intermittent (ie not always doing it) and is more pronounced at take off. I replaced spark plugs (with NGK iridiums) and the problem seemed fixed for about a week. Now it is doing it again.

Anyone got any ideas as to what is causing this and how to fix it. Cheers.
 
Check the condition of the new plugs. Ifs theyre dirty with, oil, or discoloured it could be bad batch of fuel
 
Check the condition of the new plugs. Ifs theyre dirty with, oil, or discoloured it could be bad batch of fuel
Thanks for replying. I had thought of that (haven't pulled new plugs back out) but I've had the problem for a couple of months with several tanks of fuel with no change ie just intermittent dogginess. Nothing too bad, just noticeable loss of power. When I changed plugs it had a full tank, ran well to 1/2 tank and is now doing it again. I will look at plugs, but could it be anything else. Fuel filter?? Is the fuel filter in tank?
Maybe coincidence but I first noticed it when I filled up with 98ron and put in a bottle of injector cleaner. The car was going great before this but was going on a longer trip than just short run to work so thought I would do it.

I bought car second hand. It had 128,000 on it, now has 140,000 and according to previous owner and log book had the timing belt changed at 111,000
 
Once plugs are fouled, they dont "clean" themselves very well, so it only takes a few kms of gas to ruin them. Id check plugs first up, and they'll let you know how the car is faring.
 
By all means check the plugs, but From what you said about the problems you are having I doubt it would be ignition problem if as you said the car doesn't miss from startup , doesn't misfire under acceleration or idle rough, sounds more of a fuel problem to me.
Also seems strange that you said the problem started after you added injector cleaner to the fuel.
I would Check the following , Fuel pump intermittent fault , Fuel filter partially clogged, Injectors partially clogged
Check fuel pressure for any drop in pressure, loop to return line from fuel regulator, check for for leakage from regulator back to indicate faulty regulator.
Could be partially clogged fuel filter as well, depends on what quality fuel was put in before you bought it, also possible after effect of using injector cleaner is that some sediment could be causing problems in your injectors.
 
Thanks wagonmaster. I was thinking the same thing about partially clogged injectors or partially clogged fuel filter. As I said, it maybe just coincidence but it seemed to happen after I filled it up with BP 98 and injector cleaner. I was thinking that this may have dislodged some crud and now it is partially blocking injectors or fuel filter. I can't understand (if this is the case) why it would be intermittent? I would have thought that if filter or injectors were partially clogged then the slight loss of power would be permanent. It can last for several seconds or several km's then good again 'til next time. It was going like a rocket (as much as a 140,000km N/A 2.4l lancer can go like a rocket lol) before the injector cleaner. I should have left well alone haha.
 
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I know what you mean, few times in the past I thought it was a good idea to fix or replace something that wasn't broken, with the result same as you.
You will need to go to a mechanic or specialist shop, preferably a good one that doesn't tell you (and charge you) that you need to replace X and Z instead of starting at A because they don't know what they are looking for anyway, get them to check fuel pressure varying Intermitant pressure drops , and look for any constant leakage back from fuel regulator to indicate faulty unit.
I have seen fuel filters in the past partially blocked that can cause similar problems as you described as well as faulty intermittent pump problems, or regulators, it's hard to diagnose a fault without seeing the car or having it happening continuously instead of intermittent, but if what you described is accurate I still think it's a fuel problem somewhere in that system, possibly even injectors.
 
how long ago was the injector cleaner/98 fillup?

one of my cars recently had injector cleaner run through it (and a bunch of other work) after it had been sitting for a few months. it had a really rough idle for a few days after, but came good once it got a few pedal-to-floor freeway onramps and a nice long freeway run — so i also figured some crud got dislodged by the cleaner but managed to burn off in time

so i guess if you haven’t had the pedal to the floor since running the injector cleaner thru, maybe that’s worth a crack?
 
Did it come on all of a sudden after filling up or has it always slightly been there.

Ive had two 2.4 lancers both of the same year. One a sedan feb batch and the other a wagon of sep batch. My sedan flew like a rocket completely responsive as soon as you put your foot to the floor. Yet my wagon didnt. My wagon behaved exactly as you describe, hesitating intermittingly, mainly around take off i even got it in second gear sometimes. Only ever seem to do it under 2.5k rpm.

While i had the two cars together before selling the sedan i changed a whole bunch of parts to see if i could combat the issue.
Coilpacks
Spark plugs
I even swapped out the entire fuel pump, reg and filter assembly.
I did a timing belt kit which was needed anyway.
The only thing i found that gave me some relief was to disconnect the battery and 'reset' the ecu, while doing this i also replaced the maf sensor on the intake. But the problem returned after around a week of driving.

None of the above could help me, as i do all of my own car servicing i narrowed is down to lag on the fly by wire, well in my case atleast. Be it missed a service or ecu update from mitsu im not sure.

I just lived with it, if i had a situation were i need my car not to hesitate i just gave it a little more rpm, *poo*ty reply i know but may be of some use to you.

Oh i should also mention i only ever filled up with 95 or > and never used fuel or injector cleaner in that car.

Here is a link to my thread asked a few years back now.
http://auslancer.com/index.php?threads/4g69-intermittent-choking.5620/
 
Thanks for the replies fellas. All food for thought. No, it wasn't always there. I was driving from Newcastle to Sydney so decided to fill it up with 98 and put in some injector cleaner for a longer highway run. It was in Sydney when I first noticed it, so 100+ kms later. So maybe coincidence?? It's had plenty of foot to floor stuff before, during and after this. It's nothing major, just noticeable (temporary) less power. Not missing, just sluggish and then comes good for a while then comes back. As I said before can be in any gear at any throttle level and can last a few seconds to a few kms and then be good for the same. I replaced the plugs mainly 'cause it was the simplest thing to do. It did seem to fix it for a few days but then came back exactly the same. I'm tending to think it is more fuel related then spark related as wagonmaster suggested - because it isn't 'missing' or running rough, just doggy. But I really don't know.
 
I read your thread hornunga. Thanks mate. My prob is slightly different in that it doesn't 'stick' or hesitate on a certain rpm for a second or tw0, rather it will always go from idle to redline, just sometimes slower than other times. when it is playing up it doesn't seem to be running rough just something restricting it. I mainly drive it when my ute is broken, the ute goes good. Here is a pic.

9.jpg
 
My 2007 ch velocity has the same issue. And i have not put injector cleaner through it. i cannot figure out what the issue is either, i also came to the conclusion that it could be something to do with the fly by wire throttle. the issue is random and generally at take off, and if you lift your foot slightly off the accelerator and depress it again all seems to be fine.
 
I'm almost certain it isn't spark related, so seems can only be fuel (ie pump and/or, filter, and/or injectors) or the fly by wire throttle. Now seems most likely fly by wire throttle. I wonder how to fix? I haven't rang mitsubishi, but no doubt they'd want $$ for doing *fudge* all. How long has yours done this for and have you tried anything to fix it?
 
No i haven't tried to fix it yet as i have mostly been living in the country where i have been mainly hwy driving. Now that i'm living back in town i will probably look into it soon.
 
Mine does the same (2007 CH Velocity).
I believe it is a common problem to do with the factory ecu mapping.
I just learned to live with it, over time.
Well.. until I can either get a aftermarket ecu or a reflash on the factory unit.
 
Hi all,

I have a 2007 2.4l CH manual velocity. It has flat spots/dead spots/loss of some power throughout rev range. The car doesn't seem to be missing or running rough it just has less power than normal at these times. The problem is intermittent (ie not always doing it) and is more pronounced at take off. I replaced spark plugs (with NGK iridiums) and the problem seemed fixed for about a week. Now it is doing it again.

Anyone got any ideas as to what is causing this and how to fix it. Cheers.
It maybe just bad fuel.
I test drove a Toyota supra years ago a mate had seen it in a used car yard for about a year and he was interested in buying it so we went in and took it for a spin and she ran like a dog that no one would buy, but we put
$ 5 of fuel in it and she started to run clean and after some more trashing she was running spot on.
Mate went in the next week to buy it and she was sold.

I test drove a VL Turbo once from a sale yard and the same thing just running like total rubbish but she was starting to run a lot cleaner and the sales man would not allow me to clean it out properly, thinking I would buy a car that ran like that, you have to be joking, I would of if it ran clean, so no sale.

I don't like Caltex 91 unleaded or any of their other chains 7/11 etc in SEQ as it's crap, I can tell it it's using Caltex fuel the E10 is fine but the rest 91, 95, 98 are crap.
A mate showed my how his 375KW VF Commodore went and I said you are running Caltex in this and he said yes, I can hear that noise they make it's like it's not running spot on clean, it took me a few years to spot what was going on, as I thought all fuels were just the same, but once I got a handle on it I could pick it up.
First I had a new V6 VS Commodore and it would do 218KM/H but Caltex only 205KM/H
The wife's V6 VS would ping on the Caltex 91.
My VY SS made a grumbling noise when flat out with Caltex you can hardly hear it but when your ear is tuned in to it you can pick it up instantly, many a time I would go a 500km trip and come back thinking she does not truly perform that well, most of the fuel up around there is Caltex and once I got a handle on what was going on I only looked for BP or Shell and boy coming back home she would really impress me how well it went.

Old mate got the *poo*s when I pointed out that his 375KW did not impress me at all, but last time I went with him she did get up and fly and I said that's not Caltex and he said it was BP 98 with a smile ear to ear.
I have ran him many a time in my VY SS to his VZ SS and always hosed off his every time, but once when I was using Caltex.
 
HMMM, interesting you say that about the fuel as i have a turbo V6 ute (see above pic 320rwkw on 17psi and 400 on 22psi) which was tuned on BP98 and doesn't go as well on caltex 98 (i haven't used less than 98 of any brand for the V6) and agree it does have a unique 'sound' and feel when using caltex . I just never use caltex with that car.

I didn't think it would matter that much what fuel i used on a naturally aspirated stock engine, but I have filled the lancer up mainly with 91 from 7/11 over the last 100o-1500kms as it is convenient on the way to work (although I first noticed the problem when i filled up with BP 98, go figure?). I used 7/11 after this and the problem continued intermittantly. The last 2 times i filled up the car i used Bp 91 and the car has been going great now for about a week.

I agree with PhilX and others that have said there seems to be a problem with either the fly by wire accelerator and/or ecu mapping for the 2007 2.4l velocity. Some seem to have it constantly, others not at all and some intermittant.

I still don't know what is causing my issue as i've done about 12,000kms in car (bought 2nd hand) and only been the last 1000 since issue started. For now it is going great again and i will avoid caltex, 7/11 fuel and see what happens. Fingers crossed.
 
HMMM, interesting you say that about the fuel as i have a turbo V6 ute (see above pic 320rwkw on 17psi and 400 on 22psi) which was tuned on BP98 and doesn't go as well on caltex 98 (i haven't used less than 98 of any brand for the V6) and agree it does have a unique 'sound' and feel when using caltex . I just never use caltex with that car.

I didn't think it would matter that much what fuel i used on a naturally aspirated stock engine, but I have filled the lancer up mainly with 91 from 7/11 over the last 100o-1500kms as it is convenient on the way to work (although I first noticed the problem when i filled up with BP 98, go figure?). I used 7/11 after this and the problem continued intermittantly. The last 2 times i filled up the car i used Bp 91 and the car has been going great now for about a week.

I agree with PhilX and others that have said there seems to be a problem with either the fly by wire accelerator and/or ecu mapping for the 2007 2.4l velocity. Some seem to have it constantly, others not at all and some intermittant.

I still don't know what is causing my issue as i've done about 12,000kms in car (bought 2nd hand) and only been the last 1000 since issue started. For now it is going great again and i will avoid caltex, 7/11 fuel and see what happens. Fingers crossed.
Yes 7/11 is Caltex, but as for fuel all over Australia I think it's not all totally the same, I am in South East Queensland.

Now that we can not produce our own fuel all over Australia we can get what ever, once I had this fuel it was 98 but the smell was different real strong and I splashed some on me when filling up my dirt bike that runs 13.0:1 and it was like a burning sensation, way more than i have come across, there was a problem at the refinery shipment at the time I remember, but the fuel performed well.

On my GSR the throttle is slow to respond when you flatten it, it's fine but backing off she is like a we bit slow to shut off, not good for the clutch, I have never said anything to the dealer ship as I forgot about it when I got the solenoid done with the recall. has anyone had this problem before, maybe I will look into it my self, as it may be just a tight throttle body shaft.
I have only had the first free service done, I do all the other servicing myself.

From what I have gathered with the Fly by the wire is that they do not follow your foot as one would think that they do, as in a mechanical does, but the ECU must tamper with it as well, if not the throttle body it's self in some ways as well. I first felt what I thought was this going on in a VZ SS Commodore and then in my Toyota Aurion, if you stab the throttle quickly but not flat mind, the bugger comes across as if I had flattened it directly = it is opening quickly but goes too far directly and so when overtaking the bugger will jump back to 2ed gear at 80KM/H etc and the wife looks at me thinking really ! hey I did not intend it to happen so radical like that as their was no need for such, as I was planning on a 3rd gear response easy overtake with half throttle, I have did the same in the VF V6 Commodore as well. so I have to learn to feed the throttle in slower to get the response I truly want.

The mechanical throttle body can never open past it's given intent, but I believe the FBW can, not to mention the ECU could adjust that throttle opening to the engines best opening setting, take for example in top gear manual trans mind, if you were flat to the boards and going up a steep hill, would that throttle body be open all the way ? maybe not, for it may be better performing at a lesser opening and the ECU will be tuned to work that out best, now for example if one goes and modifies beyond a certain limit, now is that throttle body truly in tune it's self for what the ECU is truly telling it. so your turbo mod and the PSI you are running and the tune job, well is it just tuned for flat out and the rest of the span just working off what ? like is it plotted all the way through well enough in all, it may be near enough to the sheep station in all but is it spot on ? a tuner was showing me this when making a Chip and another was showing me how he was much better than any tuner, because he had all the time in the world and in real world driving and not just on a Dyno and could fine tune easy 4 times in depth than others could.
 
Yeah, the v6 turbo ute is spot on. Forged pistons, H beam rods, balanced, blue printed, gt 3586 turbo, autronic sm4 ECU etc, etc. It was only the 2.4l lancer i was asking q's about :)
 
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