Official too lazy to search, noob friendly thread.

The door looms to match for both the mirrors and the windows, if you don't have any extra cable on your door looms apart from the speaker wires you will definately need them. Windows you will probably also need a relay. I'm sure there is a pic of the relay box under the steering column somewhere on this forum and you have to see if there is wiring attached to the back of that relay aswell else you may need a dashloom too. And the mirror switch as well and hopefully there is a spare plug near where that slots in or else again, dash loom that has one.

This is just off the top of my head.
So do I need new door cards or is that only for the purpose of power windows? Or new doors, or just the wiring?
 
So do I need new door cards or is that only for the purpose of power windows? Or new doors, or just the wiring?

Well you would need the switches on the door cards, door cards that fit switches if you need to source them separately and the door looms that have both the power windows and power mirror plugs. Don't need to change the door. Yes the door cards and switches would only be for the purpose of power windows but even if you are doing the mirrors first and then later doing the windows you would be best getting door looms that have both plugs
 
Can you replace the led in the defogger and AC buttons?
Yes. They are t5. Send bulbs are integrated into their sockets, but are still t5 sized. If integrated, you can buy t4 etc that are integrated, or buy sockets and put your t5s in those.
 
Yes. They are t5. Send bulbs are integrated into their sockets, but are still t5 sized. If integrated, you can buy t4 etc that are integrated, or buy sockets and put your t5s in those.
You confused me abit there when i looked for t4 t5 leds.. But i now see that you have to wrap the wire round the rubber socket, the factory light is actually a bulb not led but the store i was looking in had loads that would work i just didnt know yet. Thanks rigby
 
Hi,
Forgive me if this is a stupid question. Don’t know a lot about cars. I was topping up my coolant reserve tank and noticed the tube in the photo is not connected anything on the other end. Where is it supposed to go? And is this a big problem or an easy fix? TIA
 

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Hi,
Forgive me if this is a stupid question. Don’t know a lot about cars. I was topping up my coolant reserve tank and noticed the tube in the photo is not connected anything on the other end. Where is it supposed to go? And is this a big problem or an easy fix? TIA

Not a stupid question, thats what this thread is for :)

Thats the overflow's overflow. When engine temps really push the limit, and the coolant starts to boil/expand, any excess coolant is vented out through that tube, and spilled out into the bay/road. Only perhaps in really really heavy traffic and a 40c summer day will you get close to boiling though.
When coolant cools, it and the engine block contracts and may suck up some from in the res. I tend to keep my overflow reserve about half filled (when cold) for this reason.
 
Has anyone got any ideas on moving the window squirter bottle?. Is there a common bottle from another car people use to get it out of the bumper and into the engine bay?
 
When stopping hard sometimes my brake will feel like they are locking up, making a sound like a ship hull running aground. What is this and how can I fix it? I also have warped brakes as my steering wheel shudders when stopping hard so it isnt that.
 
When stopping hard sometimes my brake will feel like they are locking up, making a sound like a ship hull running aground. What is this and how can I fix it? I also have warped brakes as my steering wheel shudders when stopping hard so it isnt that.
Sound like perhaps you might be low on brake pad material too then, the screeching is often the warning strip that is embedded to most brake pads to let you know its time to get ready to change them.
 
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