Official too lazy to search, noob friendly thread.
- Thread starter unclepaulie
- Start date
Not so much as brands as info, mum had her professionally installed tint fade to full on clear after about 5 years. My cheapo $20/5M roll has also started to fade after 2 years. Ive heard the good quality stuff lasts much much longer and is much thicker than the cheaper alternative, but pricey.
A few tint shops will offer lifetime warranty against that, and imo thats worth the $200 or so and to have someone else re/tint the car
You can usually head into a local tinters and buy rolls from them. Anything 3M is a good start. As Donki said though, most Cheapy stuff does degrade quickly.
For professional jobs I use SolarTint. Im personally not interested in the risk of damaging my glass ect, so never looked too hard into diy.
For professional jobs I use SolarTint. Im personally not interested in the risk of damaging my glass ect, so never looked too hard into diy.
one of the (plastic) mounting tabs inside my rear bumper has broken off. what sort of glue should i use to reattach it?
(specifically: it's the tab that bracket 64002 clips onto in this diagram)
edit: i searched, found this stuff
(specifically: it's the tab that bracket 64002 clips onto in this diagram)
edit: i searched, found this stuff
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Never used the quick steel plastic epoxy, so can’t comment on that. I have always used products like sikaflex to fix most broken plastic mounts , plastic parts, body kits, anything repaired with this has never failed me yet. I like the fact that even though it sets and gripes like a crocodile on buffalos balls, it still has a small amount of flexibility as opposed rock hard which is prone to stress cracks and failure over time.
yeah that concern about stress failure is why i’m not just going straight into it with superglue
i searched some more in the meantime, and apparently urethane adhesives are the way to go here, so i think i’ll actually give this stuff a try
i searched some more in the meantime, and apparently urethane adhesives are the way to go here, so i think i’ll actually give this stuff a try
I agree, urethane is good, I have plastic welder (hot staples) that I use, and I even back it up with the sikaflex if practical or just use sikaflex on its own, depending on job.Its prob overkill on some jobs, but at least I know it won’t fail again. Only thing I would say is give it a bit longer than than the 30 mins they say, my waiting time is usually up to 24 hrs.
uh? If youre talking about the wheel nuts pictured, they are tapered. Same as CH ones. I would imagine mitsu used the same studs in all of the cars, if you struggle to find a set.
hornunga
Active Member
All of the wheel and nut combo ive used ch/ce are the typical acorn / tapered seat. Along with any aftermarket wheel ive owned.
I didnt realise until yesterday that the stock evo ix Wheels are a ‘mag seat’ type of nut. Id rather only pay $30-40 down the wreckers apposed to the $100+ for ‘evo’ wheel nuts.
I didnt realise until yesterday that the stock evo ix Wheels are a ‘mag seat’ type of nut. Id rather only pay $30-40 down the wreckers apposed to the $100+ for ‘evo’ wheel nuts.
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Where would I find the physical location of the number 6 in this diagram?
This is a splice location for postive power supply. Same as a common earth splice or connector. In the diagrams for evo’s they are listed and easily traced, however the documentation lacks for std lancers. I traced mine manually and found it is located under the second smaller fusebox in the engine bay. It’s a big lump bundle butt connector with all fo the wires the same colour. No good for getting or modifying a power source from. Just an FYI.
hornunga
Active Member
