Mirage 4g63t swap build parts info/list compile.

69+dohc+boostie boi=track toy.
Personally I would rather go through that build then just simply swap a 63 in
 
The thing that'd deter me personally is reliability.
At stock power levels the 4G63 should be reliable and plenty fast and can run factory ECU.

If going full out then yes a 4G69 + DOHC + internals + turbo + aftermarket ECU would be the best way to do it
 
The thing that'd deter me personally is reliability.
At stock power levels the 4G63 should be reliable and plenty fast and can run factory ECU.

If going full out then yes a 4G69 + DOHC + internals + turbo + aftermarket ECU would be the best way to do it

4g69 DOHC can run a stock ecu

And evo swap Still need to find rare shafts and make the evo box fwd. Plus, who does an evo swap to then keep it stock?
 
Stock ECU and stock tune I should have said. Then you'd have a car that is really civil in behaviour and you can run a bit more boost than factory if you wanted some extra power.
That'd be my pick at least, a car that behaves like stock and there's no need for more than 206kw in a FWD Lancer.

Granted for others this wouldn't be their ideal goal.
 
OK well I screwed up in a way, went fumbling about in paperwork, mine is actually evo VII 63t, which should mean no mivec rubbish to deal with, still been hunting down a 64box and been looking to get into a pick/payngo type wreckers to be able to get it and the small chunk of loom I need oh and the drive shafts, I have the VII engine mounts but my guess is I should pick up an Evo IV - VI one?
 
OK well I screwed up in a way, went fumbling about in paperwork, mine is actually evo VII 63t, which should mean no mivec rubbish to deal with, still been hunting down a 64box and been looking to get into a pick/payngo type wreckers to be able to get it and the small chunk of loom I need oh and the drive shafts, I have the VII engine mounts but my guess is I should pick up an Evo IV - VI one?

Oh well that’s alright. No mivec means one less head ache.

Brain has been ticking over, I have a feeling a mirage diff can fit in a 64/69 gearbox too with the right combo of shims and bearings. Would mean you could get an 4g6x fwd box and get s gearbox shop to fit a 25spline CE diff. Would make things easier to source parts and 69 boxes are done a dozen


Yes you’ll need a cn9a/cp9a engine mount rather then a ct9a
 
Oh I just remembered the starter is in a weird location too on 4g63t’s. It’s tucked right in next to the turbo.

Hmm high mount turbo might be the only solution now for a fwd box. You’d have to check it.
 
Would it be wishful thinking at all if say a fto 6g box would fit? then splines to fto hubs are a match to shafts and perhaps length might be an issue mayyyybe. although probably harder to source than a magna box for sure.
In terms of high mounting the turbs,thats as simple as purshasing the right manifold, in saying that im likely going to have to use the starter from wherever my box comes from, i was also looking up LSD add ons for magnas etc, no real leads there as yet, but can see its a "thing" lol
I have pulled all the FTO gear back off of mine for now as were looking at squeezing a rage into the shed to fit all this to and get it up and running in that and move it over to mine once done, figure few hundy for a bomb and keep mine going to it goes pop lol
 
Found this, now thinking my previous post might be the go =)

Quote:
Originally posted by MarkFTO
The 6A12 gearbox (forget the part number fot it) upper bolt holes dont match up and the starter motor position doesnt work when attached to the 4G63 which means a small fabrication of a different mount.
So, apart from the upper bolt holes and starter, all else is the same between the 6A** and 4G** bellhousing? Cool!
cool.gif


I was told on another forum, that "wide" 4G** block also has different upper bolt holes to the "narrow" 4G** block. Now I just need to figure out which are the "wide" blocks - iirc the Starion 2.6 was mentioned as a "wide" block.

I'll have to do some research on the 4G** engines , and see if I can figure it out!
confused.gif


... and what I out found was
1) the FTO was available in Japan with the 4G93 1800
2) EVOs are 4G63
3) There are two distinct bell housing patterns, dubbed narrow block (standard DSM size) and wide block (typically found in RWD configurations).
4) 4g63/4 manual - narrow block, auto - wide block
 
The FTO differentials are the same as Magna I believe (at least some of them are) as the Raliart Magna uses t the same LSD as the FTO has.
I also have CJ4A gearbox internals in my FTO gearbox.
Not sure if the bellhousing pattern is different but it's all interchangeable.

It is a lot of effort TBH and personally as I use my Lancer only for the track, even though I would love more power from a 4G63 I just keep thinking about getting something like an MX5 instead as a track car and turbo that.
 
Info is getting a bit wild.

4g15/4g9X/6a1x all share the same bellhousing
4g64/69 is different to above
4g63 is unique (only in starter location, bolt spacing is same as all CE orientation 4g6x)

6g7X is completely unique

Narrow block / wide block only relates to CC orientation. Not CE. Remember the 63 code is old AF.


So once again, I’d reccomend a 4g69 gearbox. Put a mirage diff in it. Use mirage shafts. Work out how to fit a turbo in there.
 
Yeah would like to keep this on track, whilst making it informative.
I am happy to give both boxes a try and see how they go, on the plus side if they both fit then i have a spare for when one explodes down the track lol.
 
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Still attempting to source gearboxes =/ was wonder G though in the meantime, does anyone have tactrix that could clear the imob code off of this ecu? How much etc, wanna try and get the engine running sooner rather than later, haltech is still on the cards tho
 
I would recommend just going straight to the Haltech. The amount of people I've seen do any kind of engine swap and mess up he ecu/immobo combo and not have a running car for days/weeks/months... insane. Skip the BS and just go aftermarket if you're doing a conversion that isn't stock. Even a simple 4g15 -> 4g93 swap gets people with ecu and immobo issues most of the time because they either forgot a step or tried to mess with the ecu/immobo combo
 
Just get a jap spec evo ecu. No immob. Or send it to TME in soringwood nsw. Steve can unlock it
 
If going full standalone like a Haltech, is it possible to avoid getting a front cut and just starting with a 4G63 long block and 4G69 transmission?
The turbo install would need to be customized anyway for the starter motor and intercooler piping.
 
Still attempting to source gearboxes =/ was wonder G though in the meantime, does anyone have tactrix that could clear the imob code off of this ecu? How much etc, wanna try and get the engine running sooner rather than later, haltech is still on the cards tho

Forum Sponsor @Hens clears imob for $90 from memory. Expect about the same price from anyone. I’d offer to do it myself, but I have so much on the go at the moment.
 
If going full standalone like a Haltech, is it possible to avoid getting a front cut and just starting with a 4G63 long block and 4G69 transmission?
The turbo install would need to be customized anyway for the starter motor and intercooler piping.
Not sure if that's a question, however that's the aim here, to have a 63 running fwd for now without mutilating an Evo box/transfer and utilising as few evo parts as possible.
Once done I will be writing up a full list of what I have found in the hopes that it can help people in future, merely because so far information is limited and those who have done it don't "seem" very willing to share and that's not a dig, just an observation.
Also 90 for an imob clear isn't bad, happy to try it and not ignoring you rig man, I like ur thinking, however its $90 in the pursuit of a yes or no answer that may or may not help elsewhere.
 
Sorry my question was a bit unclear.
I meant if going a full standalone ECU (e.g, Haltech) can someone avoid buying a front cut (and hence complete wiring)?

As a front cut is 6k+ but a 4G63 long block is 2k or less.
In this instance the transmission won't be used, the turbo manifold needs to be customized, the intercooler piping needs changes, and if not using the stock ECU what else would be needed from the front cut other than engine mounts?

I know it'd be a lot tough to swap but maybe more cost effective too?
 
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