Immobiliser bypass

Discussion in 'CE Lancers and Mirages' started by Jakeyt89, Feb 28, 2018.

  1. Jakeyt89

    Jakeyt89 New Member


    Just got given a ce lancer 1.8 that won't start.
    Apparently they went out to start it one day after driving and it wouldn't go.

    I've had a bit of a sus. Everything is fine except fuel pump isn't going. From what I have read on here this seams to be a common issue with the immobiliser. I have spark I have cranking just no fuel pump.
    Before I go removing pumps etc I would like to bypass the immobiliser.

    Now my question is where is the immobiliser located to disconnect it.

    Thanks. Jake.
  2. donki

    donki Administrator Forum Administrator

    The Imob is located on the drivers side of where your aircon controls are located, behind the dash.

    Unplugging the imo won't disable it FYI, it needs to be disabled via software coding in the ECU. Imo isn't a common failure, only when the key or barrel is damaged, or if something dodgy is going on. Have you tried checking the fuses?
  3. Jakeyt89

    Jakeyt89 New Member

    I have checked every fuse I can find and everything seams good. Is there a fuel pump specific relay or fuse I can find and check? I have everything pulled apart atm
  4. SDate42

    SDate42 Active Member Lifetime Premium Member

    Imob only cuts injector pulse, not fuel pump activation. There are two fuel related relays behind the centre console trim down on the passengers footwell. You can try replacing or bypassing those. Anothe test would be to check injector pulse, that would rule out the imob.

    As above, removing it wont bypass it. Needs to be removed with software. /Ecu programing
  5. Jakeyt89

    Jakeyt89 New Member

    Those fuel pump relays are clicking and working fine when I turn the engine over. I have no fuel going to the fuel rail.

    I haven't really got any idea how to test if the injectors are firing.
  6. SDate42

    SDate42 Active Member Lifetime Premium Member

    Noid light or multimeter. Should have constant 12v on one side and the earth conection is switched by the ecu when the injector needs to fire. So test continuity on earth while someone cranks the car
  7. Jakeyt89

    Jakeyt89 New Member

    Yep they are firing. So just down to the fuel pump.

    I'm thinking of running a 12v to the pump. Do you know what wire is the 12v fuel pump wire? Can't find a diagram
  8. SDate42

    SDate42 Active Member Lifetime Premium Member

    Dont have any diagrams on me, should just be the two largest wires on there for 12v+ and Earth connection. Probably red and brown/black being fuel pump. Probe with a multi, you cant break anything with it.
  9. pelican

    pelican Member

    from gregorys,


    BL = black with blue trace
    BO = black with orange trace
    BW = black with white trace
    B = black
    R = red
    donki likes this.
  10. DrB

    DrB Active Member

    You should have 12v on the fuel pump relay when you turn the ignition on, just pull the relay out and short the two pins that go the the contacts in the relay.
  11. DrB

    DrB Active Member

    black w/white trace, pin 3
    black w/blue trace, pin 1
  12. Jakeyt89

    Jakeyt89 New Member

    Ok so still no go.
    I bridged power to the fuel pump. It's not blown. Works fine and has an earth. Tryed to start it with that running and still no go. No injector pulse I believe. Sprayed some brake cleaner in it and it fired and ran on that so it's defiantly a fuel issue.

    I removed the after market immobiliser/alarm. Nothing changed but that wasn't needed anymore.

    I spoke to my gf's dad and he said he put a diagnostics tool on it and he was getting a ecu fault come up. I suspect it's ecu but what I want to do is eliminate the factory immobiliser before I go buying an ecu.

    I've read you can swap 2 pins around on the ecu to by pass it? Is this info correct? Does anyone have the pin out for this?
    This is my last step before jumping to conclusions about ecu's
  13. donki

    donki Administrator Forum Administrator

    Put the key in the barrel, and turn to ignition. If the Check Engine Light comes on, stays on for 4 or 5 seconds, and flashes off and then stays on again, its an immob fault. Otherwise, read the actual diagnostic output from the OBD port and it will tell you exactly whats wrong
  14. SDate42

    SDate42 Active Member Lifetime Premium Member

    Check for fuel flow at the rail. That will eliminate the fuel filter as an issue. Already mentioned above how to test injector pulse. If you have no pulse - imob issue. Need scan tool ect ect. Check around for uplugged or cut wires.
    Jakeyt89 likes this.
  15. Jakeyt89

    Jakeyt89 New Member

    Thank you. Will do these tests and let you know the results.

    Sorry i miss read the injector pulse comment. Will test that tomorrow.

    Just wanna say thanks for your help guys! One of the most helpful forums I've ever used.

    Cheers Jake.
  16. Jakeyt89

    Jakeyt89 New Member

    The engine light comes on the flashes off for a second then back on again.. everything else is fine. Where do youj suggest I go from here?
  17. donki

    donki Administrator Forum Administrator

    That is an immobiliser issue. If you have your second key, you should be able to get Mitsubishi (or certain locksmiths) to reprogram the Imob Module, else you'll need a new key, barrel and imob from a wreckers or Mitsubishi

    Edit: if you were given the car, and it suddenly doesnt start, id be weary of it being hot
  18. Jakeyt89

    Jakeyt89 New Member

    Is there a way to by pass it inside the ecu? I messaged a guy on here who apparently does it. See if I get a reply.

    With replacing those units is that all you need? Wouldn't be to hard really.
    I only have one key. Not sure if it's the master.

    The car isn't hot aha. It was my gf's years ago. She gave it to her sister when she brought a new car. This lasted a year then this issue appeared. She couldn't be bothered with it so bought a new car. She also has one of these but a 1.5lt as a race car so that's why we plan to get this going, they can then race each other.
  19. donki

    donki Administrator Forum Administrator

    Yes it can be disabled fairly easily with the coding of the ECU, but then you do run the risk of the car being able to be stolen with like a screwdriver.

    It should just be the key and imob module yes, but you'd obviously need the barrel to match the key so it turns lol. I think the ECU can be whatever as long as its a manual/auto and for the 1.5L or 1.8L, as i believe the key communicates with the Imob, and then says yes or no to the ECU, so the ECU doesnt really play a part. I cant confirm though if the ECU needs to match the Imob too
  20. Jakeyt89

    Jakeyt89 New Member

    Doesn't bother us really. It's going to be a track car mainly.

    Can you recommend anyone to re code the ecu? Or even a link to do this myself if possible?

    I changed the ecu with another one today just to see. Which provided to change so I am 100% now that the immobiliser is the issue. As I first suspected.

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