EVO 6 ECU Advice

@Slee96 - Im taking to S&J first off as Tokyo motorsport new them and my brother goes there with his sooby but will be looking for closer and better so thanx for that info Slee96.

@Leadfoot - Thanx im alowly realising some of the things your talking about as my idle is generally constant and lumpy but occasionally it revs all by itself so i put that down to the aftermarket ECU getting it checked thursday but the hand controller has been set to account for the aircon and idle doesnt change at all and i am moving towards putting the factory one back in after the advice im getting we'll see
 
I had my evo looked at for sale inspection by S&J before it headed West. That is the only personal dealing I've had with them.

All the work on mine was done by Steve Knight, I never had a problem. But there is so much talk this way and that. Steve is unconventional in his hours and that suited me fine. I can see how people whose evo is their only car and need it done to a schedule would not find him appropriate. I've not had any dealings with Driven, Mike Dale etc.

@BTB All i have left is a E6 ECU. So if you already have a E6 you can use that. Do you have an engine bay picture / know if it has an AFM or not? I have access to (it is in perth atm) the AFM that came out of my car originally.
 
@TPG - i just checked out Driven Motorsports looks good and unfortunately i dont currently have a engine bay photo but i will take some shots tomorrow and post it for you, so are you in perth? @TPG - i just checked out Driven Motorsports looks good and unfortunately i dont currently have a engine bay photo but i will take some shots tomorrow and post it for you, so are you in perth? and im not sure yet if the previous owner did anything to the AFM! Thanx for looking anyway mate :thumbup:
 
can tune for speed density using oem ecu anyway so don't need the maf/afm
 
I got a Beeble Tune on my E6 (factory E6 ECU), I've been told by him that they are now able to get almost everything the E7 Ecu's can do: Dual mapping, Anti-lag, mafless to name a few.

I don't mean to hijack a member, but jump on EvoOz, Benny, Beeble and a few others frequent that forum a fair bit so you may be able to get some direct info from there.
 
@BTB; nope I'm in SA currently. But lived and bought evo in WA. Sold my evo back to WA because I never changed the rego and maintained an address in WA and it was too modified to bother to try and get SA rego done.
 
I don't recognise it - but that isn't surprising.
The AFM is still there - presumably the mesh inside it hasn't been gutted and the wiring is still all there.
I see a vent to atmosphere bov so you may want to keep using MAP rather than AFM so you don't get some odd fuelling from the bov not being recirc.
 
Thanks mate but as this is the first turbo car i have owned there are things i will have to read up on and learn but i heard that i would be better off with an aftermarket stock BOV as i experience a bit ofTurbo lag what would you advise. And have you done a ride thread with your current car (in profile pic) i would like to see it looks good with the rim colour.
 
Boost the Beast said:
Thanks mate but as this is the first turbo car i have owned there are things i will have to read up on and learn but i heard that i would be better off with an aftermarket stock BOV as i experience a bit ofTurbo lag what would you advise. And have you done a ride thread with your current car (in profile pic) i would like to see it looks good with the rim colour.
how are you gauging your turbo lag if this is your first turbo car..? plus you have a td06 20g which is decently bigger than a stock turbo which is why you are experiencing lag. again it all comes down to the tune
 
@7R3N7 - Ok oops i never meant i gauged the turbo lag! The mechanic at Tokyo Motorsports in Perth test drove it and told me i had it b4 i drove back to S.A. Also when i acceleate and get to around 4-4500rpm it starts to squeel any thoughts would a plazmaman evo 9 to evo6 hot pipe eliminate it? Or would it have something to do with lubrication of the turbo? or can you think of something else unless it is normal thats what im trying to find out thanks
 
Starts to squeal?? That could be a number of things i guess, hard to internet diagnose that one!

regarding bov's specifically; If you base engine tune off afm (air flow) then you'll need a recirc bov, so that the 'air' gets accounted for in the fuelling of the engine. Otherwise with a vent to atmosphere one you can get some poor fuelling whenever the bov 'activates'. ie during gearshifts etc - also poorer drivability, ie stalling when coming to idle. That said some people persist and enjoy the pops during gearshifts. Some 50/50 bovs recirc and atm can minimise some issues...
When using map (manifold pressure) it doesn't matter if you have vent to atmosphere or recirc. But pretty sure no vta bov is legal...

I had a number of different bov setups during my time with it, plastic stock, metal stock, r2d2, hks ssqv (with fins and without). Easy thing to change yourself and always people selling some 2nd hand.

I don't have a full build thread or anything. There are these:
viewtopic.php?t=1858
http://perthevo.com/community/index.php ... on-vi-gsr/ but that forum is pretty dead.
Rims were put on 2009, fluro rims on street cars was less common compared back then compared to now.
They came with a warning they'd fade, and fade they did. Eventually powdercoated them a satin black.
 
what did you end up doing in regards to the ecu?
the amount of changes that has to be done for modifying the wire loom to the ecu is needed nothing too major but still needs to be done. I was going to swap over to a Evo 7 ecubut ended up selling it and keeping the Haltech in the car and have had that tuned the car is really fast and no dramas with cold start etc and I have 272 cams in there plus a heap of other gear. nothing wrong with PFC they are just out dated but still work fine take the car to someone who can tune it the PFC and see what you can get out of it as extra HP and torque
 
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