DIY CAI

tryg

New Member
For those who want to keep the stock look, but have additional advantages of more air flowing into your airbox.

This mod really requires the addition of an RA intake $150 and a K&N Panel filter $120. The additional parts cost $10.

Start by taking off the OEM smaller snorkel, radiator top panel and install your K&N. That much you should be able to do without pics, I am hoping!

Clean well with spirit.
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Once you have your radiator top plate off, make a template for your 'ski-ramp' out of cardboard.
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Now, cut out the required piece out of light-gauge aluminium.
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Get the appropriate shape, by rolling on a full bottle of coke or similar shape container. Then affix using your desired adhesive or mechanical attaching means.. (I used Sikaflex).
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View from front left unpainted.
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View from side showing ramp-effect to take air directly from front to enlarged intake.
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Now cut out the radiator top panel (small slots) into a large rectangle shape, leave open or place expanded aluminium mesh behind for effect. You can easily cut this with a stanley knife, use a steel ruler to get really straight lines. Also you can use hot glue or sikaflex to adhere the expanded mesh to the back of the radiator top plate.
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View when finished.
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To make it a bit more effective, make a 'cap' like template to sit over that little opening as our bonnets have a rubber strip that can block air delivery into the intake. Our intakes are not designed for any form of performance so little simple things like this can help make a difference.

To get the most from both the RA/NA snorkels, cover up the holes that are midway underneath the snorkel. If you have the NA snorkel, in the mouth of the snorkel you will find a second entry into a chamber. Cover up that entry with either tape or whatever so air can travel into your intake box and not into that chamber.

Another one is the other free intake mod people do where parts of/entire snorkel is removed from the intake. Although this is free, this can lead to unnecessary costs and leaving the owner red faced especially when upgrading to a full exhaust set up with headers; it can mimic the sound of an exhaust leak. It has happened a few times and over different brand set ups.

The above air delivery ramp does help direct air up to the intake. Its not an all noise and nothing else mod. As simple as it is; it does have a function.
 
I agree with TJOZ, making a cap to push 'all the air' backwards would be a major step forward. There is a commercially available product from Malaysia, blown in plastic, ready to go, off-the-shelf...

This may be another thing to do... I have proven with a wind-meter (in a workshop with a leaf blower blowing toward the grille and the bonnet shut, the air meter lodged inside the airbox), that air striking an unmodified set up will only produce minimal flow (just above zero) results, where as the ramp installed and widened opening produced measurable airflow.

So, it means clearly that air is not as-much needed to be drawn in forcefully, rather that air is 'available'....

Just my limited but statistical (anecdotal) evidence....

For your collective consideration.
 
If you dont mind using carbon fiber, wait a few months ;)

Na over the last 6-8 months we have been working on new intakes for CJ Lancers geared towards performance and not economy. All CJ Lancers (including RA/Evo) the intake is set up for economy and NVH levels. It has very little performance bias in stock forms. Many aftermarket intakes do play to this too; majority of the intakes available are only doing half the job. Many intakes out there dont do anything with pulling more air into the point of entry in the intake system. Shoving a larger filter in that can handle more flow is only half the job if your doing nothing in sourcing air to it.

Even been looking at vortex generating and turbine intakes so the air is constantly moving towards the throttle body and keeping the air density loss to a minimum and air temperature to aid in combustion (colder air combusts better as there are more molecules as opposed to warm air). Both the ramp and the cap have all been present in the different designs that have come forward.

The intake ramp is probably the most beneficial free mod you could do with improving your intake on the CJ Lancers. The cap even better when used with the ramp.
 
tjoz said:
To make it a bit more effective, make a 'cap' like template to sit over that little opening as our bonnets have a rubber strip that can block air delivery into the intake.

I think you will find that the bonnet rubber channel actually goes backward at the point of the intake and covers over the edge of the intakes mouth.. blocking air from entering into the engine bay but allowing it to force sideways out, hence the use of the P-channel on the sides...

I think the scoop, either plastic or CF, would be the logical solution. I am afraid though, that the CF (even made inexpensively by a member here) will still be more expensive than a blown-plastic item from Malaysia.

I will enquire!
 
really, must have been ripped off... I have heard about $45 and $12 postage... but I will call them.
 
Did you have to replace your airbox to fit the K&N in. Your airbox has room in the middle to fit the filter and still clip up while mine needs to be sealed tightly for the clips to be able to reach and lock on to each side of the box
 
shrimpywh said:
Did you have to replace your airbox to fit the K&N in. Your airbox has room in the middle to fit the filter and still clip up while mine needs to be sealed tightly for the clips to be able to reach and lock on to each side of the box

the K&N replacement filter is the same size / shape as your OEM one
this means you can put in a higher quality filter without any mod work (providing you get the correct filter)
a simple swap and replace
 
Mitsu have changed the air box design. As shown in Trygs photos is how the early model CJs came. You'd have to check say a Ryco parts listing to see if all CJs use the same filter element (they probably do).
 
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