DIY: Battery to Boot Relocation

rigby

Well-Known Member
State Event Organiser
Battery to Boot Relocation

What you need
- Battery Box
- 6m of 0gauge (50mm^2) battery/welding cable
- 6m of conduit
- 4/6x 0gauge ring terminals
- Drill + 1" hole saw
- 2x L brackets
- Stainless steel bolts
- 4/6x 50x50x3mm square washers
- Isolator switch
(maybe more to come)
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With this install you want to work backwards, which means mounting the battery box, then running and securing the cable from the box to the engine bay, completing the wiring side of things first, and lastly moving the battery from the engine bay to the boot. By the time you move the battery you should be ready to plug it straight back in.

Step 1
Find where you want to mount the box in your boot, I suggest the side of the boot for a neat install. Could also do it behind the rear seats but makes it a bit more difficult to access. You need to drill through the floor pan (not the chassis) and secure the box. 4 holes is best, 3 will do if evenly spaced. The bottom of the battery box either needs a metal battery tray (hard to find one that fits in the battery box) or just a thick piece of thick plywood. Drill through whatever tray you are using, and secure it with the washer and nut on the underside of the floor pan to help distribute the force/movement evenly. You want the battery to be sitting flat in the box, and the box to be flat against the floor pan.
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Step 2
You need to get under the car and look where you want to run the cable under the car, so jack up both wheels on one side (passenger most likely). I suggest running the cable along the sill and away from the rear trailing arms and away from your exhaust. When you figure that you, drill a small hole through your floor pan where your battery cable is going to pass through up into your boot. When you have the whole lined up, use the 1" hole saw to make a larger hole for the cable. Spray some rustproof paint around that hole and put a rubber grommet/o-ring around it.
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Step 3
Thread/feed your cable into your conduit, forcing both together at 90degree angles works well. Run your cable under the car and secure it every 60cm along the sill with some self tapping screws. Depending what side you run the cable and what side your battery is on, you may need to run the battery cable along the firewall to the opposite side of the engine bay. If so, run it along the engine loom and secure it with some zip-ties.
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To be continued
 
Oh... Was thinking of doing this DIY but never got around to it. Had too many things to do, so did you get the kit from what I posted in FB?
 
Nah assembled my own, need more than just what that kit gives you as well. And the kit only gives you 2gauge cable, not 0gauge.
 
Could run the cable through the cabin too as long as it's secure and rub free. Have done in many cars.
 
But paulie I'm lazy and I don't want to pull out seats and carpet :( I think you'll be happy with how legit my install ends up though
 
Oh ok. 2 gauge cable was perfect for me as I ran it straight though the firewall and along the sides, fits perfectly without bulging out. I wasn't particularly keen on running it under ther car.

Nice write up so far by the way.
 
Yeah if you run it through the cabin, chances are you need to run it through the firewall as well. Didn't want to do either of those. The insulation of the 0gauge cable itself plus the protection of the corrugated conduit will keep it safe
 
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