CE Lancer ECU tuning

As far as I can remember, the piggyback, well, the eManage anyway.. Just fudges numbers for air, fuel, and spark. Defo no timing.
Why go piggyback? Bcoz at least if it *poo*s itself, and needs fixing or retuning,... You can just switch it off, and run the factory ecu and tune n keep driving.
With a reflash or a stand-alone, you car is a paperweight until you get it fixed. :tonguewink:
Much better for those on a budget, and that have only one vehicle.
 
As far as I can remember, the piggyback, well, the eManage anyway.. Just fudges numbers for air, fuel, and spark. Defo no timing.
Why go piggyback? Bcoz at least if it *poo*s itself, and needs fixing or retuning,... You can just switch it off, and run the factory ecu and tune n keep driving.
With a reflash or a stand-alone, you car is a paperweight until you get it fixed. :tonguewink:
Much better for those on a budget, and that have only one vehicle.
Add to that, the ability to use it in another car if you decide/have to change yo whip :sunglasses:
 
So wish I still had mine, but after my wheels being written off, the guy who bought my wreck kept telling me he'd get his electrics mate to take it out only to keep giving me excuses, like his mate didn't know what he was looking at, and didn't want to damage anything getting it out. :unamused:
 
As far as I can remember, the piggyback, well, the eManage anyway.. Just fudges numbers for air, fuel, and spark. Defo no timing.
Why go piggyback? Bcoz at least if it *poo*s itself, and needs fixing or retuning,... You can just switch it off, and run the factory ecu and tune n keep driving.
With a reflash or a stand-alone, you car is a paperweight until you get it fixed. :tonguewink:
Much better for those on a budget, and that have only one vehicle.

That is one way of looking at it but a piggyback usually means hacked up wiring and melted/ blown engine if it goes out under boost or high load conditions then your hole car is a paper weight.
If the stock ecu dies which I have yet to see happen your car simply switches off or goes into limp mode .
A h8 or sh type ecu from the u pull it is 50 dollars and can be kept in the car at all times with stock tune on it if you were worried like that.
 
You just make sure you go to someone that knows what they're doing. Not someone who dabbles. Mine was done by Ivan and the boys at Hi-Power Racing.
 
From my understanding there are some piggyback units that can advance the timing.
The way this is done is that the first engine revolution is ignored and ignition kicks in from the 2nd revolution.
So to advance the timing 5 degree you are in reality retarding the timing by 355 degrees.

The car only has bolt on mods and I wanted to retain OEM feel to the car (cold starts, power steering rpm, AC rpm etc etc) as well as the cost benefit in both purchase price and tuning price.
Spending $1k+ wouldn't really net me any extra gain.

Build thread... Perhaps one day, but all the pictures I have are just from my cell phone
 
From my understanding there are some piggyback units that can advance the timing.
The way this is done is that the first engine revolution is ignored and ignition kicks in from the 2nd revolution.
So to advance the timing 5 degree you are in reality retarding the timing by 355 degrees.

The car only has bolt on mods and I wanted to retain OEM feel to the car (cold starts, power steering rpm, AC rpm etc etc) as well as the cost benefit in both purchase price and tuning price.
Spending $1k+ wouldn't really net me any extra gain.

Build thread... Perhaps one day, but all the pictures I have are just from my cell phone
Cool id like to see the build.
Is it Mivec ?
 
Yeah it's the MIVEC version.
It's getting tuned (hopefully) in 2 weeks from today. Pretty interested to see what power it makes
 
ECUFlash, runnings ceddymods;

Would i be correct to increase my scaling, due to cruise/WOT being richer than the fuel map (by 2 AFR points)? Idle sits perfect on 14.7:1
 
ECUFlash, runnings ceddymods;

Would i be correct to increase my scaling, due to cruise/WOT being richer than the fuel map (by 2 AFR points)? Idle sits perfect on 14.7:1
Which scaling mate?
Have you tuned it in open loop?
the reason its running 14.7 at idle is because closed loop is controlling it and probably pull a lot of fuel to get it there.
My point is that if it has not been tuned in open loop chances are your fuel map is way out and the fuel trims are affecting wide open throttle.
What are your fuel trims doing?
 
Which scaling mate?
Have you tuned it in open loop?
the reason its running 14.7 at idle is because closed loop is controlling it and probably pull a lot of fuel to get it there.
My point is that if it has not been tuned in open loop chances are your fuel map is way out and the fuel trims are affecting wide open throttle.
What are your fuel trims doing?

I havent locked it in open loop to do logging, but i did end up sorting it out,

I raised my scaling to about 900 or so (565cc injectors), so now WOT matches my fuel map within 0.3. Cruise is still rich, but at about 14.0, so its all good now. I've tried logging trims, but nothing updates even when logging for 30mins at idle or cruise, so not sure whats going on with that
 
I havent locked it in open loop to do logging, but i did end up sorting it out,

I raised my scaling to about 900 or so (565cc injectors), so now WOT matches my fuel map within 0.3. Cruise is still rich, but at about 14.0, so its all good now. I've tried logging trims, but nothing updates even when logging for 30mins at idle or cruise, so not sure whats going on with that

ok when it does not show your fuel trims it is usually off the scale/ 02 sensor fault / not getting to correct temp or even your tps is not set correctly.
There is min temp for trims and in-between x volts for tps to engage fuel trims.

I recommend running it full open loop and getting all your afr,s tuned first.
Have you dialled in your airflow meter correctly ? there are many settings to swap over .

Personally I like to run the airflow meter and injectors that were setup with my rom from factory it does away with most of the messing around and guess work .
 
ok when it does not show your fuel trims it is usually off the scale/ 02 sensor fault / not getting to correct temp or even your tps is not set correctly.
There is min temp for trims and in-between x volts for tps to engage fuel trims.

I recommend running it full open loop and getting all your afr,s tuned first.
Have you dialled in your airflow meter correctly ? there are many settings to swap over .

Personally I like to run the airflow meter and injectors that were setup with my rom from factory it does away with most of the messing around and guess work .

Maybe, I have the Wideband sending the 'simulated' narrowband signal to the ECU. I have a three wire tps, so maybe thats playing with my function. I have a very high idle, around 1500rpm, so ive turned the BISS down to fix it. Idle stepper is at about 30 when its at operating temp.
Ill have a look at change the bit to lock it in open loop and have another go, thanks foe the tip!
Airflow meter is stock, its only the injectors that ive changed. It was working well even with the injectors before a particular instance where I stalled the car, and it hasnt idled nicely since.
 
Maybe, I have the Wideband sending the 'simulated' narrowband signal to the ECU. I have a three wire tps, so maybe thats playing with my function. I have a very high idle, around 1500rpm, so ive turned the BISS down to fix it. Idle stepper is at about 30 when its at operating temp.
Ill have a look at change the bit to lock it in open loop and have another go, thanks foe the tip!
Airflow meter is stock, its only the injectors that ive changed. It was working well even with the injectors before a particular instance where I stalled the car, and it hasnt idled nicely since.

Out of interest what injectors are you running?
 
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