I’m running 276mm twin piston fronts on stock ce master and it definitely does not feel spongy, I’d say you’ve either got contaminated pads/rotors, bad piston seals, re used copper banjo washers not sealing or air still in your lines, a different master isn’t going to make them feel less spongey, will just change the force required to actuate the pedals as the size of the master piston changes
Yeah ok. I’ll give it another bleed.
Rebuilt calipers, new pads, new rotors.
 
Does the CH master and booster bolt straight into the CE?
I’ve just done the bigger single piston upgrade with the 256mm slotted rotors and the pedal feels very long and spongy. I’ve done a re-bleed twice but hasn’t gotten much better so hoping the bigger booster/master will fix it. I like a solid hard pedal.
+1 for a re-bleed

to answer your original question the masters on the ch use a different flange for the brake lines so you would have to change that over.
Also the clutch fluid is integrated into the ch brake reservoir so you would have to find a solution to that also.
 
Does the CH master and booster bolt straight into the CE?
I’ve just done the bigger single piston upgrade with the 256mm slotted rotors and the pedal feels very long and spongy. I’ve done a re-bleed twice but hasn’t gotten much better so hoping the bigger booster/master will fix it. I like a solid hard pedal.
There is absolutely zero need to change your booster for any brake upgrade, anyone who says otherwise is full of *poo*. As Barreh said, check your calipers and try bleeding your brakes some more. If they still feel spongey try finding an FTO master cylinder - it’s bolt-on and will work perfectly fine for the 256mm upgrade.
 
+1 for a re-bleed

to answer your original question the masters on the ch use a different flange for the brake lines so you would have to change that over.
Also the clutch fluid is integrated into the ch brake reservoir so you would have to find a solution to that also.
Thank you mate. I’ll re-bleed on the weekend and see how we go.

im going to 296mm twin pot fronts and 260mm single rears. What master cylinder is best for this? I’ve read a non abs Magna master cylinder or possibly even the CH/outlander with some modification?
 
Could someone confirm these will fit. the diameter of Cooper S R55/56 rotors is listed online at 316mm.
I have 17” wheels and was looking at the spreadsheet at the start of this thread and it lists mini R56 rotors at 294mm and suitable for 17” wheels.
Will R55/56 rotors and Outlander callipers fit my rims. thanks
 
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Could someone confirm these will fit. the diameter of Cooper S R55/56 rotors is listed online at 316mm.
I have 17” wheels and was looking at the spreadsheet at the start of this thread and it lists mini R56 rotors at 294mm and suitable for 17” wheels.
Will R55/56 rotors and Outlander callipers fit my rims. thanks

From what i could see, the RS5 Cooper rotor is DBA2524, and is 294mm.
 
Ok, who's actually done the 294mm brake upgrade on their CE?

Looking for pics etc and rims setups.

I currently have a 276mm setup, and hear that i just need the Outlander brackets to do the 294mm upgrade. I'm in need of new rotors so this is good timing.
thanks
 
Ok, who's actually done the 294mm brake upgrade on their CE?

Looking for pics etc and rims setups.

I currently have a 276mm setup, and hear that i just need the Outlander brackets to do the 294mm upgrade. I'm in need of new rotors so this is good timing.
thanks
Unsure about outlander but legnum brackets will do the same. Make sure you’re running a duel stage booster.
 
Well i have a outlander 2006 and just fyi was able to install fto calipers into them so you can use the same brackets xD.
 
This isn’t brake “upgrade” related but I couldn’t find any other forum. Does anyone know where I can buy my CE’s brake pad clips from? Can’t find them ANYWHERE. 1.5L coupe :)
 
This isn’t brake “upgrade” related but I couldn’t find any other forum. Does anyone know where I can buy my CE’s brake pad clips from? Can’t find them ANYWHERE. 1.5L coupe :)

Best bet would be to borrow them from a wreckers tbh; are you talking about the retaining clips that hold the pad in place in the caliper?
 
Hi all

Looking to do the basic ‘Proton swap’ front and rear on my 2003 Mirage - I've read the thread start to finish but wanted to check a few things.

-I'll need the soft rear lines from the Proton?
-It sounds as though BMC upgrade is unnecessary, but does firm up the pedal even more than stock?
-Opinions vary on the need for a different prop valve, is there a hard and fast answer on this?

Cheers
 
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It begins!

Picked up a pair of 2207 Magna V6 ABS calipers today, and will sort out OEM rebuild kits this week.

From reading the thread it looks as though there's no 'off the shelf' brake line available to make this swap? I'll need to have custom 'CE Lancer' lines made up with inverted flare fittings at the caliper end?

Is it necessary to use hub-centric rings when going from the standard 64mm bore disc to a 69mm bore 276mm disc?
 
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Hi all

Looking to do the basic ‘Proton swap’ front and rear on my 2003 Mirage - I've read the thread start to finish but wanted to check a few things.

-I'll need the soft rear lines from the Proton?
-It sounds as though BMC upgrade is unnecessary, but does firm up the pedal even more than stock?
-Opinions vary on the need for a different prop valve, is there a hard and fast answer on this?

Cheers
BMC is only to change the feel and to also stop the pistons popping out if your pads are low, however i wore mine down to metal without changing the BMC and it was fine so i doubt there's any truth in that either

my rear pads don't wear at all however left foot braking gets them to lock up and the balance feels right in that i lock the fronts up before the rear during hard braking but i can also lock the rears while turning to get the car to rotate with stock BMC and prop valve
 
It begins!

Picked up a pair of 2207 Magna V6 ABS calipers today, and will sort out OEM rebuild kits this week.

From reading the thread it looks as though there's no 'off the shelf' brake line available to make this swap? I'll need to have custom 'CE Lancer' lines made up with inverted flare fittings at the caliper end?

Is it necessary to use hub-centric rings when going from the standard 64mm bore disc to a 69mm bore 276mm disc?
fro braided lines work, and if you have the twin piston magna callipers then you don't use the magna disks, you use mini cooper s r53 276mm rotors which have correct centre bore and 4x100 studs to work with stock hubs
 
It begins!

Picked up a pair of 2207 Magna V6 ABS calipers today, and will sort out OEM rebuild kits this week.

From reading the thread it looks as though there's no 'off the shelf' brake line available to make this swap? I'll need to have custom 'CE Lancer' lines made up with inverted flare fittings at the caliper end?

Is it necessary to use hub-centric rings when going from the standard 64mm bore disc to a 69mm bore 276mm disc?
Evo 3 or FTO braided lines from HEL should do the job. However the braided lines need a bit of grinding at the flare to make them seat correctly.

If upgrading to 276mm, hub centric rings are good for the 69mm bore rotors, otherwise just use mini rotors.

I drove around for a year using the standard BMC on 276mm twin-piston calipers, and personally I’d highly recommend upgrading the BMC to make the pedal feel more firm and like factory. Either 15/16” or 1”.
On the standard 7/8” BMC the brakes would only start to really grab at around 50% pedal travel. With the 1” BMC I only have to touch the brakes and I feel them bite instantly. Much more comfortable knowing my brakes are there the second I need them.

As for prop valve, they’re all the same so don’t bother. FTO ABS prop valve and Mirage non-ABS prop valve are the same part number.
 
Evo 3 or FTO braided lines from HEL should do the job. However the braided lines need a bit of grinding at the flare to make them seat correctly.

If upgrading to 276mm, hub centric rings are good for the 69mm bore rotors, otherwise just use mini rotors.

I drove around for a year using the standard BMC on 276mm twin-piston calipers, and personally I’d highly recommend upgrading the BMC to make the pedal feel more firm and like factory. Either 15/16” or 1”.
On the standard 7/8” BMC the brakes would only start to really grab at around 50% pedal travel. With the 1” BMC I only have to touch the brakes and I feel them bite instantly. Much more comfortable knowing my brakes are there the second I need them.

As for prop valve, they’re all the same so don’t bother. FTO ABS prop valve and Mirage non-ABS prop valve are the same part number.
I’ve never gotten the ‘spongy’ pedal feel with twin front and fto rear calipers. I’ve driven on the track, hills, stop start traffic and haven’t noticed a difference in feel over stock in terms of pedal travel, I’ve only noticed they require far less force to stop the car leaving it easier to find the threshold limit of the tyres before they lock up, I do have a new bigger master so I’ll guess I have to try it to make a fair comparison but can’t seem to see the point when the stock one is fine
 
I’ve never gotten the ‘spongy’ pedal feel with twin front and fto rear calipers. I’ve driven on the track, hills, stop start traffic and haven’t noticed a difference in feel over stock in terms of pedal travel, I’ve only noticed they require far less force to stop the car leaving it easier to find the threshold limit of the tyres before they lock up, I do have a new bigger master so I’ll guess I have to try it to make a fair comparison but can’t seem to see the point when the stock one is fine
There’s a reason FTO came with 15/16” and 1” BMC’s running 256/276mm rotors, whereas Mirage/Lancer came with 7/8” but only came with 235mm rotors. Otherwise Mitsubishi would’ve slapped the same BMC on every vehicle from factory.

Swap them over and you’ll see exactly what I mean.
 
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