Thanks for the help, mini discs will work well enough for what I want.EVO 3 Caliper will mount up to the FTO 276mm Bracket or the Outlander 294mm Bracket.
I don't cover lines in this spreadsheet due to the nature of this conversion but my recommendation is to get new lines made up that follow these 3 points if you go to a place that make adr approved lines: Line length as per stock (Lancer/Mirage CE), Car side connection as per stock (Lancer/Mirage CE), Caliper side connection as per car caliper comes from (Whatever car it came from, your case EVO 3).
Also the mini discs mentioned are 276mm Height. the only difference is the thickness which many people on this forum have used for years with no issues. I also recall someone mentioning that they did the measurements and its also impossible for the piston to pop out unless of course you run the disc to the point that the disc would snap before that ever happened.
But if you are unwilling/want it for very hard track use then maybe getting the magna discs redrilled is better and from memory the magna 276mm discs are the same as the evo3 stock discs, so save yourself some money from the "Evo" tax there.
Forgive the generic photo. But the tierod ends are tapered to fit into the knuckle. Flipping the over isnt an option unless you have them machined somehow.So after many late nights of reading, I have come to this point of asking for some more information ...........
CG/CH 114.3 big brakes ........... yes I have already read hornunga's thread and all his issues and was curious why can't we flip the ball joint over and mount from the top allowing for clearance from the sway bar or just use the CH sway bars? (I am going to take a wild stab at the width being the biggest issue with the sway bars, but am not that knowledgable about suspension parts hence the flipped ball joint question)
Oh crap, I am a mong I totally forgot that they have a freaking taper!!!! hahahahaha herp derp so it would need to be a true frankenbrake setup all good ........... so does the CH front sway bar fit and therefore alleviate the problem?
I gave up on it, the sway bar may fit, but its doubtful, i never bothered. Even if you do get the knuckle to fit around the sway bar, then you will run into another issue with shock length and width. Not worth the fuss.Oh crap, I am a mong I totally forgot that they have a freaking taper!!!! hahahahaha herp derp so it would need to be a true frankenbrake setup all good ........... so does the CH front sway bar fit and therefore alleviate the problem?
Whats funnier is the guy selling them is the person who posted above you rofl.Looking to do a rear disc swap on my rage. Found a guy on facebook selling a few proton rear disc kits. He has the following:
2 calipers and mounting brackets
Set of second hand rotors and brake pads
Is this all I need, or do I need the proton trailing arms as well?
All good. I actually just went and watched the MCM vid on the rear disc swap on 2sexy. Explained everything I needed to know.
I might be slightly off, but its to do with how the braking assembly itself that attaches to the hub/arm. The disc assembly is the caliper that bolts to the arm, and the rotor slides into that. The drum assembly (in particular on the trailing arms) have a different mounting position for the drum mech to bolt onto. It might be the same hub, but the mouning points are different, and using disc parts on a drum arm means you need a bracket to pair the twoHey, guys so I have been thinking which yes is dangerous! ....... so according to every manufacturer I have looked at, the rear hubs are the same between proton GTi and CE's so how is it that the rear disk swap aways says hubs needed? is it the handbrake assembly?
Lol you were mentioning protons didn't see anything about CHs. No clue regarding them apart from the general swap to get 4x114. I'm assuming it would work then? Might as well try.Ok I will try again
as far as I understand the CH rear assembly doesn't mount properly into the CE platform.
currently, I have 4 complete assemblies 2 front knuckles hubs soft lines the lot, (these won't just swap in) I also have 2 rear trailing arms hubs handbrake assemblies hard and soft lines chassis to hub/calliper etc everything except the handbrake cables.
So I am trying to see if I can get away with using a 4 x 100 hub with the rest of the CH assembly or if I should keep the callipers and sell the rest to the scrap metal lot down the road. and get other parts from say a proton etc
however, if nobody knows I happen to have a 2nd car for the time being so I can pull mine off the road and experiment and find out.