Brake Upgrade Information V2.0

glebo

New Member
I'll just add that I can confirm that the FTO calipers can bolt to the outlander 2000-2006 ZF series. I haven't tried using the stock outlander disc and it does bolt on. Pics to come.
 

NFG

Member
So I'm not very clue-y when it comes to mechanical stuff (even the basics), so I just want to check my info is right.

If I want to fit evo 3 front calipers to my mirage, I need to change the caliper bracket to part#MB618218 and get new lines made up? Or do I need to swap hubs and knuckles? I'm keeping 4x100 stud pattern.

Also I'm wanting to make sure all the sizes are factory spec, so would prefer to not run mini discs and get the correct sizes (276mm). Do I just get evo 3 discs and get them redrilled, or do I need to go a different route?
 

pLethora

Active Member
Lifetime Premium Member
EVO 3 Caliper will mount up to the FTO 276mm Bracket or the Outlander 294mm Bracket.
I don't cover lines in this spreadsheet due to the nature of this conversion but my recommendation is to get new lines made up that follow these 3 points if you go to a place that make adr approved lines: Line length as per stock (Lancer/Mirage CE), Car side connection as per stock (Lancer/Mirage CE), Caliper side connection as per car caliper comes from (Whatever car it came from, your case EVO 3).

Also the mini discs mentioned are 276mm Height. the only difference is the thickness which many people on this forum have used for years with no issues. I also recall someone mentioning that they did the measurements and its also impossible for the piston to pop out unless of course you run the disc to the point that the disc would snap before that ever happened.

But if you are unwilling/want it for very hard track use then maybe getting the magna discs redrilled is better and from memory the magna 276mm discs are the same as the evo3 stock discs, so save yourself some money from the "Evo" tax there.
 
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NFG

Member
EVO 3 Caliper will mount up to the FTO 276mm Bracket or the Outlander 294mm Bracket.
I don't cover lines in this spreadsheet due to the nature of this conversion but my recommendation is to get new lines made up that follow these 3 points if you go to a place that make adr approved lines: Line length as per stock (Lancer/Mirage CE), Car side connection as per stock (Lancer/Mirage CE), Caliper side connection as per car caliper comes from (Whatever car it came from, your case EVO 3).

Also the mini discs mentioned are 276mm Height. the only difference is the thickness which many people on this forum have used for years with no issues. I also recall someone mentioning that they did the measurements and its also impossible for the piston to pop out unless of course you run the disc to the point that the disc would snap before that ever happened.

But if you are unwilling/want it for very hard track use then maybe getting the magna discs redrilled is better and from memory the magna 276mm discs are the same as the evo3 stock discs, so save yourself some money from the "Evo" tax there.
Thanks for the help, mini discs will work well enough for what I want.

Regarding the caliper brackets, I'm guessing the stock evo 3 ones would also work for my application, seeing the part # listed on the spreadsheet is the same?
 

Jimmib

Member
So after many late nights of reading, I have come to this point of asking for some more information ...........
CG/CH 114.3 big brakes ........... yes I have already read hornunga's thread and all his issues and was curious why can't we flip the ball joint over and mount from the top allowing for clearance from the sway bar or just use the CH sway bars? (I am going to take a wild stab at the width being the biggest issue with the sway bars, but am not that knowledgable about suspension parts hence the flipped ball joint question)

Cheers Jimmib
 

hornunga

Active Member
So after many late nights of reading, I have come to this point of asking for some more information ...........
CG/CH 114.3 big brakes ........... yes I have already read hornunga's thread and all his issues and was curious why can't we flip the ball joint over and mount from the top allowing for clearance from the sway bar or just use the CH sway bars? (I am going to take a wild stab at the width being the biggest issue with the sway bars, but am not that knowledgable about suspension parts hence the flipped ball joint question)

Cheers Jimmib
Forgive the generic photo. But the tierod ends are tapered to fit into the knuckle. Flipping the over isnt an option unless you have them machined somehow.
6203478C-8CB2-4318-BFE9-AD0756D60004.jpeg
 

Jimmib

Member
Forgive the generic photo. But the tie rod ends are tapered to fit into the knuckle. Flipping the over isn't an option unless you have them machined somehow.
View attachment 7420
Oh crap, I am a mong I totally forgot that they have a freaking taper!!!! hahahahaha herp derp so it would need to be a true frankenbrake setup :( all good ........... so does the CH front sway bar fit and therefore alleviate the problem?
 

hornunga

Active Member
Oh crap, I am a mong I totally forgot that they have a freaking taper!!!! hahahahaha herp derp so it would need to be a true frankenbrake setup :( all good ........... so does the CH front sway bar fit and therefore alleviate the problem?
I gave up on it, the sway bar may fit, but its doubtful, i never bothered. Even if you do get the knuckle to fit around the sway bar, then you will run into another issue with shock length and width. Not worth the fuss.
 

NFG

Member
Looking to do a rear disc swap on my rage. Found a guy on facebook selling a few proton rear disc kits. He has the following:

2 calipers and mounting brackets
2 cables
Set of second hand rotors and brake pads

Is this all I need, or do I need the proton trailing arms as well?

*edit*

All good. I actually just went and watched the MCM vid on the rear disc swap on 2sexy. Explained everything I needed to know.
 
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pLethora

Active Member
Lifetime Premium Member
Looking to do a rear disc swap on my rage. Found a guy on facebook selling a few proton rear disc kits. He has the following:

2 calipers and mounting brackets
2 cables
Set of second hand rotors and brake pads

Is this all I need, or do I need the proton trailing arms as well?

*edit*

All good. I actually just went and watched the MCM vid on the rear disc swap on 2sexy. Explained everything I needed to know.
Whats funnier is the guy selling them is the person who posted above you rofl.
 
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Jimmib

Member
Hey, guys so I have been thinking which yes is dangerous! ....... so according to every manufacturer I have looked at, the rear hubs are the same between proton GTi and CE's so how is it that the rear disk swap aways says hubs needed? is it the handbrake assembly?
 

donki

Administrator
Forum Administrator
Hey, guys so I have been thinking which yes is dangerous! ....... so according to every manufacturer I have looked at, the rear hubs are the same between proton GTi and CE's so how is it that the rear disk swap aways says hubs needed? is it the handbrake assembly?
I might be slightly off, but its to do with how the braking assembly itself that attaches to the hub/arm. The disc assembly is the caliper that bolts to the arm, and the rotor slides into that. The drum assembly (in particular on the trailing arms) have a different mounting position for the drum mech to bolt onto. It might be the same hub, but the mouning points are different, and using disc parts on a drum arm means you need a bracket to pair the two
 

pelican

Active Member
It's been a while since I had my sleeves up on this particular detail, but my recollection is that yes, the hubs are the same, but you need to remove the hub to install the caliper mounting bracket to the trailing arm (and, presumably, to remove the drum mounting bracket). And I guess the hub mounting is single-use only (press-fit), and taking it off damages it? So if you disassemble you'll need a new hub to reassemble...
 

pLethora

Active Member
Lifetime Premium Member
Yes the hubs are the same, even though the rear brake section isn't completed in the spreadsheet, the reason why we say the whole arm etc is due to ease of installation, no disassembly required.
The problem by doing this is that you are still going to have to install the caliper adapter which the caliper bracket bolts onto, as the rear drums don't have it. Thus again the whole arm/ease of use thing comes into play.

I will eventually update the spreadsheet.



Also pic of the caliper adapter plate below (52001L/R):

 
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Jimmib

Member
Ok so the reason I am asking is I have the 4 stud front and rears now I have discovered I can use the front callipers and am trying to work out who/what I can use to make them work I have complete rear assy so arm hub etc (Yes I know its not completely compatible but I have the important parts if I needed them and the price was right!) so If it is a point of you just need these from said proton and the rest from the hubs you have then sweet if not there is plenty of scrap metal to make some money back to make the price even better haha :)

edit: I am REALLY hoping I can make the stock arm and a new hub and most of what I have here already haha and I am happy to experiment like horunga? did with the fronts for science! :D
 

pLethora

Active Member
Lifetime Premium Member
I really don't know what you are trying to achieve here... nor what you are saying. You have the whole rear assembly but you would rather not install it easily yet it sounds like you dont have everything at the same time but you do and dont and do? lol
 

Jimmib

Member
Ok I will try again :D

as far as I understand the CH rear assembly doesn't mount properly into the CE platform.

currently, I have 4 complete assemblies 2 front knuckles hubs soft lines the lot, (these won't just swap in) I also have 2 rear trailing arms hubs handbrake assemblies hard and soft lines chassis to hub/calliper etc everything except the handbrake cables.

So I am trying to see if I can get away with using a 4 x 100 hub with the rest of the CH assembly or if I should keep the callipers and sell the rest to the scrap metal lot down the road. and get other parts from say a proton etc

however, if nobody knows I happen to have a 2nd car for the time being so I can pull mine off the road and experiment and find out.
 

pLethora

Active Member
Lifetime Premium Member
Ok I will try again :D

as far as I understand the CH rear assembly doesn't mount properly into the CE platform.

currently, I have 4 complete assemblies 2 front knuckles hubs soft lines the lot, (these won't just swap in) I also have 2 rear trailing arms hubs handbrake assemblies hard and soft lines chassis to hub/calliper etc everything except the handbrake cables.

So I am trying to see if I can get away with using a 4 x 100 hub with the rest of the CH assembly or if I should keep the callipers and sell the rest to the scrap metal lot down the road. and get other parts from say a proton etc

however, if nobody knows I happen to have a 2nd car for the time being so I can pull mine off the road and experiment and find out.
Lol you were mentioning protons didn't see anything about CHs. No clue regarding them apart from the general swap to get 4x114. I'm assuming it would work then? Might as well try.
 

Doomslayer

Active Member
Hey, does anyone know which handbrake cables are suitible to use on a sedan? Is it just evo and wira ones?

Got a sedan and I want to buy a gti brake setup
 
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