CE Coupe - Vibration when turning Right and acclerating..

Mitsi-Rich

Mitsi-Rich

New Member
Hey guys.. I need some advise, please HELP..

Please don't flame me too hard if there's a threasd already on this.. searched to no avail... referals to any links or info that will help will be gratefully accepted..

I have Just installed 20 mm lowered springs and KYB shocks all round.

Wheels and tyres are round and well balanced, Alignment done and in ALL spec.

All engine mounts have been replaced and are near new..

The Issue Im having upon my first drive, is that I get a fairly strong wobble and vibration coming from the RHS when I turn right and Accerating from stand still.. Harder I push it, the Move Vibration/shuddering.. Nothing from the LHS when turing Left and accerating hard.. . funny/weird thing is, I did have a slight vibration PRIOR to the lowered spings and New Shocks install when Turing LEFT and accerating .. I put that down to worn shocks..

There's No Clicking, Grinding , bangs or pops.. Just vibration..

H E L P !!!!

Car is 1.8L Tippy Auto, Aircon PS etc.. and has done 210,000kms

Could this be a CV issue ? .. as in a preworn CV jpoint (all orginal ones) now having to operate at an altered default angle ?

Could the CV joint be binding with such a small drop in suspension height ?

Any other peeps here experience this before and found a solution ??

Rich
 
From your description it sounds like an inner joint of a driveshaft. The inner joint of a driveshaft is a tripod and if one of the three bearings is no longer centered you will get a good vibe going.
 
OK.. so you think its a Geometry issue or the CV is rooted/worn casuing the vibes ? as i would not have thought that Every person that has lowered a CE lancer would have had this issue..
 
The vibration goes away instantly as soon as you stop accelerating?

What you have described sounds much like a driveline fault. Frosty could be on the money with the CV/shafts at 200+kms.

Easy test for CV’s is the carpark test.
-Enter your favourite empty local carpark
-From a standstill, turn full lock one way and slowly take off.
-Listen for clicking or binding noises
-may need to increase or decrease speed during this to find the worst noises.
-repeat in reverse
-repeat in the other direction of turning.

Ensure you tightened all the suspenion bolts back up correctly after the suspension work.
 
SDate42 said:
The vibration goes away instantly as soon as you stop accelerating?

Yep, Pretty Much goes away.. Nothing to note vibration wise on braking when turning..

What you have described sounds much like a driveline fault. Frosty could be on the money with the CV/shafts at 200+kms.
Yep. I did assume it was CV / Drivetrain related, but was trying to find if Others has experience the Same issues (when just fitting lowered springs) as I had NO vibration issues before fitting Lowered springg and Shocks.
Easy test for CV’s is the carpark test.
-Enter your favourite empty local carpark
-From a standstill, turn full lock one way and slowly take off.
-Listen for clicking or binding noises
-may need to increase or decrease speed during this to find the worst noises.
-repeat in reverse
-repeat in the other direction of turning.
Cool, thanks for the Test routine.. Tried similar tests to above, and NEVER had any Clicking noises at all.. From lots of reading and speaking with others, Clicking is caused "Normally" by the Outer Cage type CV joint, and Not the Tri-Bearing inner one..
Ensure you tightened all the suspenion bolts back up correctly after the suspension work.
I Always.. double checked Everything.. Never assume it's tight..!
Click to expand...
 
The carpark test although useful only really tests the outside joint. Another issue can be that the driveshaft is bottoming in the telescoping part of the inner joint. By lowering the car you have straightened and shortened the driveshaft.
 
frosty7 said:
The carpark test although useful only really tests the outside joint. Another issue can be that the driveshaft is bottoming in the telescoping part of the inner joint. By lowering the car you have straightened and shortened the driveshaft.
Click to expand...
Yep, Cool thanks.. Seeing as it's only a 20mm drop, and it starts to wobble at the slightest turn to the right ( plus there's NO clunks or knocks when the front suspension bottoms out), I don't think it would be the shaft bottoming out.. I'm thinking along the lines that the location of the Standard Suspension Height wear on the inner CV Cup ( Trans side) is causing the vibes..

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/driveshaft-spacer-necessary-lowered-car-693173/

Found this link above that details Mutilple ppl solving the vibe issues ( on a honda S2000 rear end mind you) with a spacer that resets the inner TRI bearing to an area inside the CV Cup wher the 3 x Bearings wont be in contact with the Pre Lowering wornout area of the Cup.. The theory seems to make sense, and has solved the Vibe /wobble when turning issues for many..

You guys see the logic here ?
 
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Well. Bit the bullet today and installed 2 x New GSP CVS.607 and CVS.608 Driveshafts.. Guess what.. vibrations have gone.. YAY!! LHS Shaft Inner joint was ROOOOTED.. Loose as..

A very Very minor wiggle/vibe can be felt under heavy accel from low speed, and with Aircond On its more noticable..

So, I've learnt: The 20mm drop does create a change in Drivetrain gemotry that will accentuate Any Engine rumble..

It seems that Lots of Lancer owners have the same Rough idle issue especially with Aircond on.. Revs don't drop in my case, but the coins in my ashtray start to play a jingling tune..

Due for new Plugs, Timing Belt, seals etc.. New Belt made a Massive difference on my 3.5L Magna, So I'm assuming it'll make some change to my 1.8L lancer too..

Thanks for the input and Tips.. Hope I've helped other that may read this thread sometime..

Cheers. MR.
 
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donki said:
Nicely done. How much did the driveshafts set you back $?
Click to expand...

Thank you.. :)

$145 each incl gst GSP Brand.. Private use @ 3 yr 60, 000 kms warranty.

I still feel that the rough idle (and not Totally smooth engine (200+K's) maybe contributing to any of the minor remaining Harmonic vibe, so I'm considering stiffening up the rear OR front engine mounts or Both with a polyurethane adhesive as a partial gap fill to see if it can stop or alter ANY harmonic frequency.

I'll experiment and report back..
 
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