Official too lazy to search, noob friendly thread.

Any aftermarket im assuming.
Any reason you’re after a slimline one? I have a std boss kit, but i went a deep dish wheel and now i cant reach the indicators.
But if your just going for any aftermaket wheel save your $$ and just get a normal boss kit from autobarn supercheap etc
 
hornunga said:
Any aftermarket im assuming.
Any reason you’re after a slimline one? I have a std boss kit, but i went a deep dish wheel and now i cant reach the indicators.
But if your just going for any aftermaket wheel save your $$ and just get a normal boss kit from autobarn supercheap etc
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I’m assuming the slimline boss kit would help it keep close to the indicators and what not if I got a little bit of dish on the wheel?
 
What is the opening temperature of the standard CE 4G93 thermostat? 86c~ fully open?
 
Josh34 said:
I’m assuming the slimline boss kit would help it keep close to the indicators and what not if I got a little bit of dish on the wheel?
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Correct, but if i hadnt already purchased my wheel, id choose another style for price of boss kit. Std kits run $50-60. Slimline imported atm are around $180 :sleepy:

donki said:
What is the opening temperature of the standard CE 4G93 thermostat? 86c~ fully open?
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71DF9E11-0084-4E85-B9F1-AA36C43B4481.jpeg

@SDate42
42A813FD-DC53-4CEB-B5AB-8673265652E9.jpeg CF4F4F45-F3C3-45A3-B03D-58028565B523.jpeg
Crappy photo, but evo ix enkei
 
@hornunga

That makes sense, the taper is only there to centre the wheel on the nut. Washer takes the load.

Maybe you could wait on a VRX Ch to show up at a local wrecker? Sorry I cant actually help answer your original question hahah. I might do a parts number comparison between the studs for a CH, evo and 380. Not 100% conclusive but might help.

I also havent even had a chance to take my wheels off yet :O
 
SDate42 said:
@hornunga

That makes sense, the taper is only there to centre the wheel on the nut. Washer takes the load.

Maybe you could wait on a VRX Ch to show up at a local wrecker? Sorry I cant actually help answer your original question hahah. I might do a parts number comparison between the studs for a CH, evo and 380. Not 100% conclusive but might help.

I also havent even had a chance to take my wheels off yet :O
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Sorry i was a bit vague with details. I took the risk and bought a set from ebay for $40, from a 380/verada/magna as their listing specified. They fit no issues and saved a bit because theyre not ‘evo’.
Worth a look for anyone running evo wheels 7-9
 
What are the options to correct the steering adjustment after the fto 5 stud swap?

  • Chop the tie rods down?
  • Push out the fto stud hub / bearing combo and push into ce knuckle?
 
hornunga said:
What are the options to correct the steering adjustment after the fto 5 stud swap?

  • Chop the tie rods down?
  • Push out the fto stud hub / bearing combo and push into ce knuckle?
Click to expand...

The FTO knuckle has the tie rod mounting hole closer to the centreline of the car compared to the CE knuckle, so to make the OEM rack fit the FTO hub, I just used the OEM mirage tie rod ends, without any chopping or anything, and wound them all the way in. Eyeballed it, and had a tyre shop use the machine to confirm alignment (from memory even just eyeballing it was out less than a degree). When winding them almoat all the way in, you'll still have more adjustability than you'd need in the car.
 
donki said:
The FTO knuckle has the tie rod mounting hole closer to the centreline of the car compared to the CE knuckle, so to make the OEM rack fit the FTO hub, I just used the OEM mirage tie rod ends, without any chopping or anything, and wound them all the way in. Eyeballed it, and had a tyre shop use the machine to confirm alignment (from memory even just eyeballing it was out less than a degree). When winding them almoat all the way in, you'll still have more adjustability than you'd need in the car.
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So FTO rack has shorter inner tie rods or different rack assembly? I know the outer with the ball joint is the same, cause after market part numbers are same same.

Edit: you probably didnt notice because 5 stud and wheels at the same time, but did the turn in change at all?
 
SDate42 said:
So FTO rack has shorter inner tie rods or different rack assembly? I know the outer with the ball joint is the same, cause after market part numbers are same same.

Edit: you probably didnt notice because 5 stud and wheels at the same time, but did the turn in change at all?
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Possible for both, yes. I know there'd be some free play between the gears in the rack etc, but it would make sense.
And turn in I have no idea sorry. Was too busy being a baller after the install ayy haha
 
For what it's worth, the tie rod end mounting point being closer to the centre of the car (measured in 'ackerman angle') will change steering speed (slowing it down), but not really enough to be super noticeable.

Having said that, it could be some of the reason the FTO has a quicker rack, as it will compensate for the longer movement required to achieve the same overall turning angle as a car with less ackerman (tie rod end closer to the outer extremes of the car).

Having also said that, if the tie rod end mounting point is also further away from the hub that will have quite a big affect on 'steering speed', as the further away the pivot point is from the hub the further it has to travel to introduce steering angle.
 
how much does the fto wheelbase length differ from the various cc/ce’s? length of wheelbase plays a part in the selection of ackerman angle, aiui, so the fto’s more inbound tie rod mounts could have been in compensation for that
 
does anyone know if there are any decent bolt on steering wheels that have radio controls, feeling a bit to lazy tonight to do any research
 
donki said:
The FTO knuckle has the tie rod mounting hole closer to the centreline of the car compared to the CE knuckle, so to make the OEM rack fit the FTO hub, I just used the OEM mirage tie rod ends, without any chopping or anything, and wound them all the way in. Eyeballed it, and had a tyre shop use the machine to confirm alignment (from memory even just eyeballing it was out less than a degree). When winding them almoat all the way in, you'll still have more adjustability than you'd need in the car.
Click to expand...

Ive used all STD mirage steering gear except for the fto knuckle, (i have recently replaced tie rods and ends with new) but ive maxed out both sides into to tie rods. The wheels measure straight with my home measurements. But i dont want to take it to an alignment shop and look like a knob with the steering maxed, theres not even enough adjustment there to correct the steering wheel angle. I never checked the tie rod length old vs new when replacing i was more worried about adjusting old > new lengths.
 
so im planing on doing a fto interior swap for a while now but i cant find the thread on here that had the information for it to fit into a CE, can anyone help its been over a year since i have seen it... all i rememebr from it is that i need to cut off 2 mounts from the fto dash
 
Anyone know if I’ll benefit greatly by upgrading my stock 4g15 throttle body to 4g93 tb
FYI 4g15 is boosted about to go for a retune on e85 and 15psi.
 
Josh34 said:
Anyone know if I’ll benefit greatly by upgrading my stock 4g15 throttle body to 4g93 tb
FYI 4g15 is boosted about to go for a retune on e85 and 15psi.
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It'll flow free-er in the top end. E85 is nice, but doesn't really plan a part in the airflow (without going into all the technical aspects).

For 15psi, I would upgrade the 4g15 tb to the 4g93 tb. Probably won't need to upgrade after that - what turbo is it?
 
donki said:
It'll flow free-er in the top end. E85 is nice, but doesn't really plan a part in the airflow (without going into all the technical aspects).

For 15psi, I would upgrade the 4g15 tb to the 4g93 tb. Probably won't need to upgrade after that - what turbo is it?
Click to expand...

I’m running a t25 off a sr20 at the moment
You reckon it’ll get more power if i do swap it out?
 
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