4g93 turbo vs 4g94 turbo
- Thread starter Grinfelds
- Start date
4g93 has much thicker conrods than a g94, might be a better choice. Both options will need a turbo kit to be made/purchased separately, unless you're lucky and rich enough to get a OEM turbo setup + wiring for the 4g93 (known as a cm5a engine). G94 didn't have a factory turbo option
How fast do you want to spend your money?
Seriously, what are your goals, power wise?
you want to keep the bottom end standard or we talking forged rods and pistons?
standard bottom end, see donki above.
I have seen quite a few NA 93 bottom ends running reliable 140+kw ATW, can't remember one 94...? (please speak up all 94T owners)
anything is possible it just gets tricky the higher you go.
all out 300-400+kw the '93 block has a bit more meat in the cylinder walls so might hold together better but probably still needs to be filled either way.
Seriously, what are your goals, power wise?
you want to keep the bottom end standard or we talking forged rods and pistons?
standard bottom end, see donki above.
I have seen quite a few NA 93 bottom ends running reliable 140+kw ATW, can't remember one 94...? (please speak up all 94T owners)
anything is possible it just gets tricky the higher you go.
all out 300-400+kw the '93 block has a bit more meat in the cylinder walls so might hold together better but probably still needs to be filled either way.
Grinfelds
New Member
I’m new to working on engines and doing swaps and turbo installs but I have a basic picture in my head of what I Want and what I need to achieve it.
I plan to eventually upgrade to forged pistons and rods. I just want to get the engine and turbo in and running first. Then maybe a dohc conversation depending on what engine I end up with. Also the idea of running e85 with a flex fuel sensor interests me.
I still want the car to be a daily driver so I do t want it to over heat, filling the block sounds a bit drastic form me. How far could I go without filling the block?
How much power would be possible before things start to break or become very unreliable?
I plan to eventually upgrade to forged pistons and rods. I just want to get the engine and turbo in and running first. Then maybe a dohc conversation depending on what engine I end up with. Also the idea of running e85 with a flex fuel sensor interests me.
I still want the car to be a daily driver so I do t want it to over heat, filling the block sounds a bit drastic form me. How far could I go without filling the block?
How much power would be possible before things start to break or become very unreliable?
this was just stated in the message above.
Grinfelds
New Member
I thought that was referring to the potential power of a filled block. I realy just wanna go as far as I can without filling the block.
Keep in mind I don’t realy have a reference for what those engines are capable of, this is new to me.
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Can make a safe 140+kw on both engines. Can push the g93 much higher on e85 and depending on what turbo but then theres no point for your application as a street car.
But to get back to your original question. Its very possible to make a safe 140kw for a fun daily driver
But to get back to your original question. Its very possible to make a safe 140kw for a fun daily driver
Grinfelds
New Member
Ok would it be possible to make a safe 200kw? Im looking to make as much power as possible but still have it fairly reliable for the street. can someone tell me what I would need to do to achieve that?
Also where could I cost effectively source a engine with a ecu and loom? Are there any common cars in Australia that have a 4g93t from factory?
Theres the car thread on here that had a mirage daily 200kw. Engineered, e85, 20psi on stock block.
Basically a track car driven on the street.
Australia never got the cm5a. Any car that has it in their car has imported it. Cost wise its probably easier to make your own setup.
Theres an ebay manifold that has been used countless times. It uses a t25/t28 flange. Can either run external wastegate or block it off and use internal.
Im sure someone can add a link to the manifold im talking about. But you can search on ebay 'kinugawa 4g93 turbo manifold' and it will come up
Basically a track car driven on the street.
Australia never got the cm5a. Any car that has it in their car has imported it. Cost wise its probably easier to make your own setup.
Theres an ebay manifold that has been used countless times. It uses a t25/t28 flange. Can either run external wastegate or block it off and use internal.
Im sure someone can add a link to the manifold im talking about. But you can search on ebay 'kinugawa 4g93 turbo manifold' and it will come up
Trust me, 140-150kw is perfect for daily duties.
You’ll be upsetting and shocking SS Commyclowns left and right and probably good for a mid 13sec quarter mile at the drag strip. Donki and myself can attest to that.
And there are no common cars or otherwise that had a factory 4g93t for a CE in Australia. They’re import only, such as mine. You’d have put a kit together like everyone else. You’ll still get just as good results though.
i only mentioned it to point out you probably need to set some goals. maybe go for a spin in one that you like and see if it meets your expectations.
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As an fyi 200kw is around the time you need to look at awd or rwd conversion. Youll be breaking shafts after a few hard launches or out of grip. 150kw is a good place for a 900kg car, youd be surprised.
Grinfelds
New Member
Yeah I’m sure it would be better to build on a better base but the gli it was way first car so it has a bit of sentimental value to me and I realy like the look of it.
I already have a rb20 stock turbo and a intercooler from my bros vl turbo. Also one of my mates is a boiler maker so he can weld up some stuff for me.
If I end up finding a 1.8 donor how would I go about setting up the ecu, would I need a replacement or can I get away with a piggyback ecu or something?
I already have a rb20 stock turbo and a intercooler from my bros vl turbo. Also one of my mates is a boiler maker so he can weld up some stuff for me.
If I end up finding a 1.8 donor how would I go about setting up the ecu, would I need a replacement or can I get away with a piggyback ecu or something?