Steering Rack Information Thread

Matt_Dean

Active Member
Premium Member
The steering rack has become a common upgrade recently though I still feel there is a lack of information surrounding the different options, so this thread can become a source for those looking to upgrade their rack. Upgrading the steering rack can increase steering feel, make the car more responsive and make the steering feel 'heavier'.
Comments are welcome and I will update the original post when new information is confirmed, however opinions should be backed up with numbers or at the least first hand experience. My initial information will be based around research conducted on sites like Mivec.co and other forums so some of this information may be wrong, so feel free to disagree but please back it up with some sort of evidence.

Stroke: The distance the internals of the Rack move side to side
LtL: The Lock to Lock of the steering rack i.e. how many turns are required to go from full lock left to full lock right
Fitment: How the rack bolts in, connects to hoses etc
Suitability: How suited the Rack is to the CE Lancer

CE Lancer
  • Stroke: 124mm
    LtL: 3.2
    Fitment: Stock
    Suitability: Stock

Evo 1-3 and GSR
  • Stroke: 124mm

    GSR/Evo 1
    LtL: 3.2

    Evo 1 RS/Evo 2-3
    LtL: 2.8

    Evo 3 RS
    LtL: 2.4

    Fitment: Will bolt up
    Suitability: Research indicates a rack from this generation will produce an awful turning circle, though they supposedly have the same stroke as stock
Evo 4-6
  • Stroke: 136mm

    GSR
    LtL: 2.3

    RS/TME
    LtL: 2.1


    Fitment: Will bolt up though require 2 longer bolts to fit through the solid mounts
    Suitability: The longer stroke can cause problems as this cause the stock lancer knuckles to rotate a far greater angle than usual, causing the inner rear of the tyre to get chewed by the chassis in some cases. Stroke Limiters are available which will also limit the LtL. Also FTO knuckles change the arm lengths and thus avoid this problem but the 'heaviness' and responsiveness of the steering is reduced somewhat, though still better than stock. Also some have observed there being only a small amount of thread left in the tie rod end when correctly aligned, when using 4 stud knuckles.
    EDIT: FTO knuckles stopped the tyres being munched for over a year on the street, however the extra stress from a trackday caused the tyres to once again be pushed into the chassis and be chewed up. As such it is strongly recommended that anyone trying this conversion uses some form of rack limiter to reduce the stroke back to the stock 124mm.
    RackwithRestrictors.jpg

    This is a common form of rack limiter used on mustang steering racks and a similar design would most likely be the easiest and cheapest solution. It is also possible that using Evo knuckles would reduce the tendency for the tyre to scrub, though this is unconfirmed.
Evo 7-9
  • Stroke: ?
    LtL: ?
    Fitment: ?
    Suitability: ?

FTO
  • Stroke: 124mm
    LtL: 2.6
    Fitment: Bolt up
    Suitability: Has been performed many times without issue, appears to be the same as a lancer stock rack but with lower LtL

Personal Recomendations
Based of my personal experience with the Evo 4 rack which I currently have installed and the FTO rack we installed in a mates car, I would recommend for those intending to stay 4 stud the FTO rack is an excellent option being 100% plug and play, providing a weighted responsive steering feel with no drawbacks. For those looking for the ultimate in response the Evo 4-6 rack with stroke limiters could be a good option, though I would recommend comparing lengths of the rack ends to the stock rack to ensure there will be sufficient thread in the tie rod ends when aligned. For those going 5 stud the longer arms on the FTO/Evo knuckles will reduce turning circle and responsiveness with a stock rack, I would say the Evo 4-6 is the best option, though it is important to ensure sufficient clearance between the tyre and the chassis on full lock and may require rack limiters to be used.
 
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the evo rs rack and the tme rack are the same. some people say 2.1 and others 2.2 but they are identical racks.
 
Has anyone have info on these steerings, is there anything I need to do for me to hook it up on CE2 sedan.
Evo 7 8 9
e79b7220f1e4969c98266f0901a4a88a.jpg

This came off an imported Evo with air bag module apparently suits Evo 5 - 9.
360a9b48ddfe494764591e85dd3fa4ee.jpg

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To fit E7-9 Steering wheel you must use evo 7-9 steering column. unless you can machine up hub adapters and the like
 
Thanks again Tron, seems like you are the man with knowledge. So evo 7-9 steering will be a NO for an upgrade then. Might just find meh momo steering with boss kit will be the go.
 
Pretty much, I thought about doing it ages ago coz i dont like the 4-6 wheels, but i gave up and will just do a universal momo later
 
Thanks for the awesome info Matt. My steering has a weird clunk in it, if I take it to inspection and it needs to be replaced I'll definitely be hitting you up for some advice.
 
Can anyone shed light on the lines?

Info about 'bolting in' doesn't allude to whether or not the stock CE lines will plumb in or if the lines from the donor car are to be used.

Solid info otherwise
 
Hey guys,
Is there any way to visually identify an FTO steering rack?
I checked my LTL and it is under 3 turns. It does look like about 2.6

The car has had an FTO motor conversion and I am wondering whether it is likely that the rack from the FTO went into it as well?
And is it correct to assume that turning the wheel to the lock of one direction and then counting the turns it takes to lock towards the other direction is the way to check LTL?
 
Has anyone had success using an evo 7-9 rack? And the specs at all? I'm struggling to find an evo 4-6 or FTO rack in current times
 
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