CVT to Manual transmission. possible?

wolfyyy23

New Member
Hi all

New to Lancers and rather curious about them as I might want to modify my Lancer in the future.
One of them being, is it possible to go from CVT to manual?

I have a Lancer ES 2015 w/ CVT. I sometimes feel odd about CVT, I like it then at other times I don't *sigh*.... What I'm saying is, is i might like to go to manual
If it possible would the Mitsubishi mechanics do it? Or anyone?

Thanks:)

Sorry if i haven't posted in the right section of the forums, new to all this
 
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Dude I did it on my car and it's a CE. It was a truckload of extra work and time again I would have sold and started over.


Your car is so, so, so much further technically advanced and complex and as far as lancers are concerned expensive.

So I would strongly suggest selling and buying a manual... Unless you are excellent with spanners and wiring and even then I'm not even sure if the chassis is the same and what else it needs.
 
Dude I did it on my car and it's a CE. It was a truckload of extra work and time again I would have sold and started over.


Your car is so, so, so much further technically advanced and complex and as far as lancers are concerned expensive.

So I would strongly suggest selling and buying a manual... Unless you are excellent with spanners and wiring and even then I'm not even sure if the chassis is the same and what else it needs.

Yeah that's what I was thinking. Either way thank you very much for answering my question/s, appreciate it
 
Nah all good man.
Usually we reccommend handling and braking mods first. At least you'd be able to stop later and turn at a higher speed. I loved all of those mods even when I was auto.

Things like: Strut brace, rear sway bar, suspension swaps (lower Springs/coilovers) and bigger callipers or even just a swap to performance brake pads make a huge difference in driving feel and enjoyment
 
Nah all good man.
Usually we reccommend handling and braking mods first. At least you'd be able to stop later and turn at a higher speed. I loved all of those mods even when I was auto.

Things like: Strut brace, rear sway bar, suspension swaps (lower Springs/coilovers) and bigger callipers or even just a swap to performance brake pads make a huge difference in driving feel and enjoyment
Oh sweet, I was going to ask that in another post but seems you have done that haha.
What handling or brake mod would you recommend first.
 
Rear sway bar or front strut brace. Strut brace is usually easier and cheaper to install and was one of my favourites early on.
 
Dude I did it on my car and it's a CE. It was a truckload of extra work and time again I would have sold and started over.


Your car is so, so, so much further technically advanced and complex and as far as lancers are concerned expensive.

So I would strongly suggest selling and buying a manual... Unless you are excellent with spanners and wiring and even then I'm not even sure if the chassis is the same and what else it needs.

+1. CJs are a much more complicated beast. I think the chassis will be the same, but as for wiring looms I don't know if they differ (I would suspect they dont). CVT will have some form of transmission ECU which wont be needed once you go to a manual and you'd need either a manual ECU or to reprogram with a MUT-III I imagine. Even if you changed out the main ECU, you will need the MUT-III to make other ECUs in the car work with the different ECU because of the immobiliser coding, etc.

Rear sway bar or front strut brace. Strut brace is usually easier and cheaper to install and was one of my favourites early on.

Yup your money is better spent chasing handling mods than power mods on the NA CJs.

Get some decent rims and tyres, better brake pads, coilover suspension and some chassis bracing and you will be on the right track.

Early CJs all came with rear sway bars but I believe the later base models didn't have it and they may not have even had the bolt holes in the suspension components for it. Front strut tower brace is an easy mod and you have a few options there (OEM from a VRX, Whiteline, Ultraracing, etc)
 
Stick with the CVT, its fine and works ?better when you get used to it, there's the option of changing gears manually, and if you want to, fit paddles and do it that way.
My car is the same as yours, and after a while I found by experimenting with the way you hit the accelerator on take off, gains can be initiated. I don't find it difficult to leave
most cars in my rear view mirror when I'm in a hurry (may be they aren't) Or maybe with so many tiny engine turbos on the road tubo lag dosen't give them a hope on that initial burst. Let it rev.
Only performance mods to my car are RA inlet snorkel and Whiteline upper strut bar.

Oh! and get rid of those noisy tyres,I changed to Bridgestone 215 60 16 what a difference in peace and quiet. Also the change to 215 from 205 fills the wheel wells more and improves ride comfort.
Although I suspect you will be going for handling so 18inch rims and wider low profile tyres are your bet.
If cost is a factor, there are used OEM 18 inch rims with good rubber on them around that can be gotten, comparatively, quite cheap. Try club members here and else ware.
 
+1. CJs are a much more complicated beast. I think the chassis will be the same, but as for wiring looms I don't know if they differ (I would suspect they dont). CVT will have some form of transmission ECU which wont be needed once you go to a manual and you'd need either a manual ECU or to reprogram with a MUT-III I imagine. Even if you changed out the main ECU, you will need the MUT-III to make other ECUs in the car work with the different ECU because of the immobiliser coding, etc.



Yup your money is better spent chasing handling mods than power mods on the NA CJs.

Get some decent rims and tyres, better brake pads, coilover suspension and some chassis bracing and you will be on the right track.

Early CJs all came with rear sway bars but I believe the later base models didn't have it and they may not have even had the bolt holes in the suspension components for it. Front strut tower brace is an easy mod and you have a few options there (OEM from a VRX, Whiteline, Ultraracing, etc)
Thank you soo much for the information and advice!
Yes I am thinking of 18 inch in the future.
Thanks!:D
 
Stick with the CVT, its fine and works ?better when you get used to it, there's the option of changing gears manually, and if you want to, fit paddles and do it that way.
My car is the same as yours, and after a while I found by experimenting with the way you hit the accelerator on take off, gains can be initiated. I don't find it difficult to leave
most cars in my rear view mirror when I'm in a hurry (may be they aren't) Or maybe with so many tiny engine turbos on the road tubo lag dosen't give them a hope on that initial burst. Let it rev.
Only performance mods to my car are RA inlet snorkel and Whiteline upper strut bar.

Oh! and get rid of those noisy tyres,I changed to Bridgestone 215 60 16 what a difference in peace and quiet. Also the change to 215 from 205 fills the wheel wells more and improves ride comfort.
Although I suspect you will be going for handling so 18inch rims and wider low profile tyres are your bet.
If cost is a factor, there are used OEM 18 inch rims with good rubber on them around that can be gotten, comparatively, quite cheap. Try club members here and else ware.
Will defs look into those Bridgestone tyres
Yeah might look into paddles aswell!
Thank you!
 
Thank you soo much for the information and advice!
Yes I am thinking of 18 inch in the future.
Thanks!:D


I had OEM 18s, then 19s and finally 17s on my VRX. The 17s were my favourite and with a 235/45R17 size there is a lot of tyre options and they are cheap because it was a common size for Falcons and Commodores in the early 2000s. I found that having a beat more meat in the side wall of the tyre worked well for getting good grip through the corners.
 
Could it be that the rear sway bar was omitted from later NA CJs because they tend to take the car into over steer more so at an earlier stage,
a condition that the average driver doesn't handle too well? If so would a rear upper tower brace be a safer proposition at a cheaper price?
 
Could it be that the rear sway bar was omitted from later NA CJs because they tend to take the car into over steer more so at an earlier stage,
a condition that the average driver doesn't handle too well? If so would a rear upper tower brace be a safer proposition at a cheaper price?

I'd say cost cutting was the more likely reason for it...
 
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