Lancer Active 2012 - Car suddenly goes into "overdrive"

Hi All,

I am new to this forum. I found this forum to be very helpful with my concerns.

Anyway, I have a problem with my Lancer Activ 2012 automatic transmission. The car itself is around 120,000km and counting.

Whenever I go and accelerate to 100kph (ie. overtaking) or doing any hill climb (which would need some acceleration), after that the lancer will go into somehow an "overdrive" mode (I know there is no "overdrive function in our lancer active 2012 models). What I mean is that, normal rpm for 100kph is around 2000, after acceleration (ie overtaking) then back to 100kph, the rpm will be stuck at around 3000rpm, will not stabilise to 2000rpm unless I turn off the car and let it rest for hours.

I tried doing that while on cruise control, and it will also have the same problem. Tried testing the shifting myself, that 3000rpm at 100kph will show me that it is on 4th gear, and whenever I tried to shift it to 5th or 6th, nothing happens.

The service mechanic said that they have not encountered this problem. I asked them to change the CVT and transmission oil, and they said that these fluids where very dark (possible burnt oil). But they could not fix the problem still.

I dont know what to do now to fix this.

If the CVT oil hasn't been changed in 120000ks it is overdue for a change.
So change it anyway and hopefully it might help, certainly help prevent any more possible problems and just maybe fix the present one.

The CVT oil was changed last 105,000ks. I think i would ask them to change the cvt oil again plus change all oil seal too and wait and see? not sure of this though if it will work.

Get a transmission service with all fluids and seals replaced ($200ish). You should be getting one done every 20k kms to keep it tip top, basically every 2nd engine service.

If that solves nothing it could be a TCU issue. Basically the computer that controls your transmisson. Get someone to datalog it during a drive and see what's happening in real time.

Failing that, *top bloke*s *fudge*ed and you're gonna need a rebuild most likely. Have had 2 gearboxes blow up on me, it's real fun.

I don't see how the datalogging wouldn't the problem though

I will organise a transmission check and if it doesnt work, then the computer. Finger's crossed I dont need to rebuild one. grr. Will get everyone updated on this.

rigby said:

Get a transmission service with all fluids and seals replaced ($200ish). You should be getting one done every 20k kms to keep it tip top, basically every 2nd engine service.

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You don't need to do the CVT fluid change that often on the CJ Lancer or in most modern gearboxes for that matter. From memory the interval was around the 100k mark for the CJ's CVT (and same as the spark plugs). Personally I would have got it done at the 90k mark, but 105k will be fine. The genuine Mitsubishi oil is not cheap either from what I understand, so it might be worth finding out if they actually used the genuine oil as some autos do not like aftermarket ATFs...

CVTs in some other models of cars have been problematic but the CJ's CVT did not seem to usually have issues.

I'd suggest you try talking to your local dealer or finding a good independent transmission service workshop and asking them about your issues.

Keeping in mind with what Ryan has said. The CVT oil should be changed every 90000ks, so was overdue on last change. Couple this plus perhaps inappropriate oil being used,
could be your problem, plus due to oil not being changed when it should have been done, it could have left residue that has fouled up the new oil prematurely.
Suggest just get an oil change with Mitsubishi CVT oil and fingers crossed, hope it will be OK

Also you should be getting all fluids flushed at 100k km marks. Even 50k if you wanna stay tip-top. I got my trans serviced 2 months ago (135k km) and the fluid was black (obviously never changed) and had it flushed but even after that some black *poo* remained and has obviously mixed with the new fluid. Sooo you can't win em all. I did buy the car at 130k km but still, it was still probably factory fluid in it haha.

rigby said:

Also you should be getting all fluids flushed at 100k km marks. Even 50k if you wanna stay tip-top.

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See I'd just say to follow whatever the manual says, or if you drive the car hard then do it more often!

Brake and green coolant from memory are at 45k intervals but brake fluid had to be done at 2 years even if 45k wasn't reached. The later blue coolant lasts heaps longer but I don't know the exact intervals for it.

So it generally worked out that the 90k service was the major service for the CJ with all fluids getting changed and new spark plugs.

rigby said:

Also you should be getting all fluids flushed at 100k km marks. Even 50k if you wanna stay tip-top. I got my trans serviced 2 months ago (135k km) and the fluid was black (obviously never changed) and had it flushed but even after that some black *poo* remained and has obviously mixed with the new fluid. Sooo you can't win em all. I did buy the car at 130k km but still, it was still probably factory fluid in it haha.

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Well that all depends on what you mean by you got it flushed out. Remember on an auto you can just drain the oil, drop the pan, fit a new filter, refit the pan and then fill up the oil but that's probably only replacing somewhere around 50-70% of the oil in the transmission. The rest of the oil remains in the torque converter,etc and the only way to get it out is by pumping/flushing it out. Your average mechanic probably doesn't have the gear to do it and you would likely need to go to an automatic transmission specialist workshop to get it done.

Also if the old fluid was that old it probably had lost its cleaning properties and the new oil was fast at work dissolving the contaminants throughout the transmission like it's supposed to do!

fortunately the CVT doesn't have a torque, so residual oil shouldn't be as much of a problem.
However just the tiniest bit of dirt for example rubbing a dirty rag over internal parts is enough to discolor the oil.

A few years ago, I had a problem with a Ford Falcon Auto. Driving along every now and again, medium acceleration and bang then OK.
Auto repair shop took a ride with me and said all sorts of things were wrong such as sun gears, solenoids etc and gearbox would have to be stripped right down and repaired.

My mechanic told me to get Nulon Auto Transmission Treatment and pour about half of it in, as it was possibly a solenoid sticking and that it would also help refresh the seals.
Did that and no more problems
Had a P76 everything working fine auto oil absolutely perfect and pink on the dipstick. Decided to take it to auto transmission joint and get the oil changed as a precautionary measure.
pulled out the dipstick and oil was discolored!! Apparently residue from a dirty rag or whatever was used. No problems just frustration and disappointment.