4g93 swap questions

B

Bailey

Member
hey all, i was initially doing a head replacement on my 1.5 but found i dove in too fast with the tools and skills/experience i had and i couldnt get the crank/timing apart. ive now decided to just bin the old motor and get a complete 1.8L and drop it in as i wont have to mess with timing or anything.

also yes ive scoured through other posts on the same topic and done plenty of googling but i keep finding different answers that contradict each other. is this something i could realistically do if i couldnt get a mere crank nut off? or am i diving too fast into this too?

so far the things i know i need are exhaust, engine mounts, loom & ecu. ive got a complete engine im about to pick up which has a/c and PS incase i need some of those parts. is that it? and will i have to mess with a lot of AC stuff? because ive read that its illegal to degas the AC myself and i also worry about freezing my fingers off
 
Things needed that i can remember off the top of my head:
- 1.8L long block
- 1.8l bellhousing/gearbox if you keep all the same 1.8l
- centre member+engine mounts
- exhaust up to post-cat.
- AC compressor, condenser, and lines - there was two or three JDM air con suppliers, and about 30 aussie suppliers, you might be lucky to mix and match parts, but id keep it the same. you can get away with just the compressor, and have a local shop make lines for you. Keep in note the type of connection at the firewall for AC in the cabin. AC is illegal, and dangerous to vent to the atmosphere by covering a screwdriver with a rag and pressing the firewall vent port. A local AC shop will collect it safely for you for like a six pack.
- PS pump and lines directly out of the pump. the hardlines on the chassis are the same between all models.
- the loom thats attached to the engine (this should plug into about 3 plugs under the dash).
- 1.8l ecu and the loom/plugs that connect to this (should be about 4 or so)
 
donki said:
Things needed that i can remember off the top of my head:
- 1.8L long block
- 1.8l bellhousing/gearbox if you keep all the same 1.8l
- centre member+engine mounts
- exhaust up to post-cat.
- AC compressor, condenser, and lines - there was two or three JDM air con suppliers, and about 30 aussie suppliers, you might be lucky to mix and match parts, but id keep it the same. you can get away with just the compressor, and have a local shop make lines for you. Keep in note the type of connection at the firewall for AC in the cabin. AC is illegal, and dangerous to vent to the atmosphere by covering a screwdriver with a rag and pressing the firewall vent port. A local AC shop will collect it safely for you for like a six pack.
- PS pump and lines directly out of the pump. the hardlines on the chassis are the same between all models.
- the loom thats attached to the engine (this should plug into about 3 plugs under the dash).
- 1.8l ecu and the loom/plugs that connect to this (should be about 4 or so)
Click to expand...
all sounds fine except the ac part.... car currently has no head so i cant take it anywhere to get it degassed. are there any businesses that would come to my garage and do it?
 
Bailey said:
all sounds fine except the ac part.... car currently has no head so i cant take it anywhere to get it degassed. are there any businesses that would come to my garage and do it?
Click to expand...

There should be some mobile auto ac technicians that can do it, have a google/look around for them
 
donki said:
Things needed that i can remember off the top of my head:
- 1.8L long block
- 1.8l bellhousing/gearbox if you keep all the same 1.8l
- centre member+engine mounts
- exhaust up to post-cat.
- AC compressor, condenser, and lines - there was two or three JDM air con suppliers, and about 30 aussie suppliers, you might be lucky to mix and match parts, but id keep it the same. you can get away with just the compressor, and have a local shop make lines for you. Keep in note the type of connection at the firewall for AC in the cabin. AC is illegal, and dangerous to vent to the atmosphere by covering a screwdriver with a rag and pressing the firewall vent port. A local AC shop will collect it safely for you for like a six pack.
- PS pump and lines directly out of the pump. the hardlines on the chassis are the same between all models.
- the loom thats attached to the engine (this should plug into about 3 plugs under the dash).
- 1.8l ecu and the loom/plugs that connect to this (should be about 4 or so)
Click to expand...
I rang almost every business i can find and only 1 can do it, earliest they can is over a week away. does anyone know which one is the low pressure line incase i accidentally drop a screwdriver into it?
EDIT: sorry i realised you said exactly where it is already. if i was to theoretically and totally not really do it, would it spray out and be dangerous or just simply leak out. ive got a respirator and plenty of PPE for welding
 
Bailey said:
I rang almost every business i can find and only 1 can do it, earliest they can is over a week away. does anyone know which one is the low pressure line incase i accidentally drop a screwdriver into it?
EDIT: sorry i realised you said exactly where it is already. if i was to theoretically and totally not really do it, would it spray out and be dangerous or just simply leak out. ive got a respirator and plenty of PPE for welding
Click to expand...

You could just get a Schrader removal tool, or maybe accidentally drop the pointy end of a screwdriver into the Schrader valve with a rag and run.. this is all hypothetical of course
 
JacksonRop2442 said:
You could just get a Schrader removal tool, or maybe accidentally drop the pointy end of a screwdriver into the Schrader valve with a rag and run.. this is all hypothetical of course
Click to expand...
where abouts is the valve? and does it look the same as a tyre valve or just similar?
 
Bailey said:
where abouts is the valve? and does it look the same as a tyre valve or just similar?
Click to expand...

The valve will be under a black cap against the firewall like donki said. I've included a picture below of my 1.8l sedan.

Screenshot_20200731-112846_Gallery.jpg

*I really need to clean my engine bay properly
 
Bailey said:
this helps heaps, thankyou man. any other tips to not get myself killed in this hypothetical scenario?
Click to expand...

Make sure the car isn't in a place that's where you need to be for an hour or so. Hold your breath just before you do it, then run and don't go back for 30mins-1hr to make sure there's no refrigerant left around that you could breathe in. Once that's done then you're good to go, you'll most likely need to get new Schrader valves when it eventually gets regassed, but whoever you get to do that will undoubtedly have them there to put in.

Just a quick disclaimer, doing this is not advised in any circumstances :nomouth:
 
JacksonRop2442 said:
Make sure the car isn't in a place that's where you need to be for an hour or so. Hold your breath just before you do it, then run and don't go back for 30mins-1hr to make sure there's no refrigerant left around that you could breathe in. Once that's done then you're good to go, you'll most likely need to get new Schrader valves when it eventually gets regassed, but whoever you get to do that will undoubtedly have them there to put in.

Just a quick disclaimer, doing this is not advised in any circumstances :nomouth:
Click to expand...
sorry if im a bit dumb but how will the valve stay open? do i have to fully jam the screwdriver as far as i can in and then i can leave? trying to picture how the screwdriver will hold itself in place
 
Its the same style of valve as a pushbike or a car tyre. If it was pushed in, it would either need to jamb on its inner lip, or a screwdriver held there to keep it open. Hold it manually needs about 5mins to vent. It's all high pressure, just one more than the other.

A Screwdriver, a fair few rags over the entire vent point, and pray. Keep your head above the bonnet, and if you get a whiff of it, stop, and step back for a few minutes. A nice set of gloves will help to not get instant frostbite too.

FWIW, R134 is a pretty nasty gas, much more than anything else, and if you can wait, id highly recommend to get it removed professionally for safety's sake and for the environment.
 
i definitely would never ever recommend just cracking the fittings at the dryer-receiver on the drivers side strut tower and bailing for half hour. that would be a silly thing to do as all the AC gas would escape.
 
unclepaulie said:
i definitely would never ever recommend just cracking the fittings at the dryer-receiver on the drivers side strut tower and bailing for half hour. that would be a silly thing to do as all the AC gas would escape.
Click to expand...

I'd never suggest that either.. it could be very bad..
 
unclepaulie said:
i definitely would never ever recommend just cracking the fittings at the dryer-receiver on the drivers side strut tower and bailing for half hour. that would be a silly thing to do as all the AC gas would escape.
Click to expand...
was thinking of that at first but im inexperienced and i worried that the nut would just shoot off from the pressure, or that too much would come out at once. out of screwdriver on the valve, or socket on the dryer, which horrible terrible idea is a better option for totally never attempting?
 
Bailey said:
was thinking of that at first but im inexperienced and i worried that the nut would just shoot off from the pressure, or that too much would come out at once. out of screwdriver on the valve, or socket on the dryer, which horrible terrible idea is a better option for totally never attempting?
Click to expand...

Never attempt to undo the bolt, it would escape far to quickly to try and stop it if you cracked it a bit..
 
Bailey said:
i cant tell which is sarcasm anymore lol, is this the better option or would it actually release too fast and burn me
Click to expand...
Fast or slow release is dangerous to exposed and covered skin because the chemical is endothermic to get to room temp, so it will boil and suck the heat out of everything to do so. Cover your skin
 
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